Technology-driven proposals and a solid never-ending passion for experimenting with different colors and shapes… Yoshiyuki Miyamae confirms once again Issey Miyake’s iconic legacy is in good hands as long as he’s the creative director. Unveiled at Paris Fashion Week, the Issey Miyake fall/winter 2016-2017 ready-to-wear collection is designed for all the different kinds of people one could ever think of, from those who like wearing casual-chic clothes to those who are not afraid to sport dramatic billowy designs at the office. As usual, however, all the proposals have been created in Issey Miyake’s state of mind, who was a man that liked to conceptualize both the body and the clothes (and probably does, since the Japanese fashion designer is luckily still alive).
Since taking the helm at Issey Miyake, Miyamae has managed to give his own unique style vision to the house, especially to the iconic ‘one piece of cloth’ concept, always creating looks that could perfectly fit not only the bodies of those wearing them, but also the external environment. Issey Miyake’s signature Feng Shui approach to fashion is what made the label so revolutionary since the beginning, as it makes its own shows part of a whole world of art rather than a mere world of fashion.
Assembling and then disassembling most of his quirky designs, Miyamae put a lot of emphasis on the materials too, denoting that the long creative process is still the label’s prerogative. Miyamae seems to have carefully studied each one of the threads, fabrics, shapes and colors that his collection is made of, leaving absolutely nothing to appear here by chance. He, of course, intertwined technology with traditions too, as the vast majority of the Issey Miyake fall 2016 ready-to-wear designs has been dyed and weaved traditionally.
The first thing one may notice while approaching the lineup is Miyamae’s astounding color palette, with shades dynamically combined with color-blocking motifs that will make anyone easily stand out of the crowd. Although mainly focusing on elliptical and optical illusion patterns, Miyamae took the chance to explore more geometrical motifs, using their sharp lines to further embellish the less deconstructed proposals. The collection’s many optical prints also give the lineup a more haute couture turn, enhanced herein by the 3D illusion the fluid stripes create.
Origami-inspired gowns with loads of pleats are nothing but a pure pleasure to watch, with their jaw-dropping intricate motifs that will make anyone wonder how Miyamae managed to actually put them together. Those who are hopelessly devoted to Issey Miyake will be more than happy to try the most dramatic pieces at least once in a lifetime, while those who love him but are looking for some more low-profile pieces that could however still exude the designer’s true essence, should definitely think about the collection’s closing looks, which seem to be part of a naturalistic fairy tale (and will make you look like a modern time Japanese version of the Queen of Heart, which is never a bad idea!).
Photos courtesy of Vogue