As much as Jonathan Anderson has gotten us used to an androgynous Loewe, Yoshiyuki Miyamae keeps on mesmerizing us with technologically refined Issey Miyake collections, and we honestly all expected something similar for his Issey Miyake spring/summer 2017 collection, too.
What the Japanese designer presented at Paris Fashion Week a few hours ago was not, however, an average Miyake lineup. Extremely feminine, urban-inspired and unapologetically versatile, the Issey Miyake spring/summer 2017 collection was, in fact, nothing like the previous fall/winter and spring/summer ones, as neither Op-art-inspired motifs, nor heavily structured lines were involved in the making of the pieces.
Only a few origami-inspired textures and slightly geometrically deconstructed staples made their appearance throughout the show (it was an Issey Miyake runway show, after all), but for the most part, the lineup was all about experimentations with the color patterns and fabrics.
As usual, Yoshiyuki Miyamae utilized the notorious Baked Stretch fabric to create his proposals, namely a technique that gives the staples a signature undulating form and incredibly soft texture. As for the collection’s main source of inspiration, it came from nature.
The inspiration for this collection is the microcosm and it comes from nature, as shy and introvert Yoshiyuki Miyamae revealed in an interview with a French magazine, instantly giving us a sort of artistic aha moment.
If the textures, prints and even shapes did not conventionally resemble naturalistic patterns, the shades and color-blocking patterns sort of reminded us of the natural elements, such as water, earth and fire.
Couturier Yoshiyuki Miyamae focused on the reminiscence and sensations nature fulfills us with, and tried to translate such patterns into more conceptually artistic looks. The fire got thus translated to standout multicolored flames that embellished most of the tops, water literally ran through the lineup in multi-variegated forms, and earth was to be seen in the sharp, clean-cut, earth-toned garments.
Air seemed to be an intrinsic part of the Issey Miyake spring/summer 2017 collection too, as it was seen within the voluminous, airy staples, as well as in the softness of the materials. White, cold-toned grays and blues, rich browns and greens dominated the scene, often getting interrupted by shocking yellows and pinks (should we compare them to the unpredictability of nature?).
Once again, one of the collection’s main protagonists was the waistline, as an abounding amount of cloth belts cinched at the waists shaped the figures in hourglass silhouettes, yet without losing Issey Miyake’s signature oversized look.
Hints of loungewear and Japan-inspired couture refined most of the proposals, as seen especially within the jackets and shoe line accordingly. Overall, the Issey Miyake spring/summer 2017 collection was neither familiar, nor entirely new, and we bet Yoshiyuki Miyamae will keep on evolving his style from now on.
Photos courtesy of Vogue