Jason Wu decided to cut back for his New York Fashion Week showing for spring 2017. He didn’t scale back the clothes he showed, but he made the presentation setting more intimate, inviting only 250 people to view the Jason Wu spring/summer 2017 show, which took place within the private club within Spring Studio, Spring Place.
The salon-sized staging area was adorned with glass cases of flowers and furniture with mid-century stylings. The increased intimacy and dramatic scenery made for a beautiful stage for the tailored and sheer collection Wu sent down the runway.
In recent seasons, the New York based designer has shown neutral-paletted collections that always projected this elegant sophistication, but the lines were always held down by these mature restraints. But for the Jason Wu spring 2017 collection, he played around more with vibrancy, keeping things sophisticated while exploring a more colorful spectrum of fashion.
He proved that even the brightest of colors have their place in a modern, mature woman’s wardrobe, and that they can even play well when paired with soft, feminine fabrics. Many of the designs that walked the catwalk were created with a base of neutral colors and overlaid with striking neon colors. He is expanding his standard aesthetic, and in doing so is using color to add an extra depth of tailoring to the pieces.
A sheer, feminine nude dress with the collection’s vibrant floral print was given strength and the visual effect of tailoring by adding in lines of a recurring neon yellow shade. The flowers that showed up in all of those sheer pieces were the most striking motifs in the collection, and likely would have been even more so in the intimate setting as it was presented. They look lovely and striking on screen, but would have been completely captivating in person.
When Wu spoke about his new spring collection, he sited Ugo Rondinone as his initial source of inspiration. Rondinone’s work includes that of Seven Magic Mountains, a 30+-foot-tall colored stack of boulders outside Las Vegas. His bright work was a great source of inspiration, since the artist’s work tends to be placing his colorful work in softer or otherwise less expected places.
Besides these feminine pieces, which weren’t always the most wearable due to the sheerness, Wu also presented a series of edgier silhouettes in navy and pink. Some looks featured the season-trending off-the-shoulder and slight deconstruction design, while others were classic spring/summer silhouettes recreated in more unexpected fabrics, and some still of which with handkerchief hemlines.
By introducing sheer navy fabric into the collection, Wu tied in these two different design aesthetics, keeping a level of cohesion in the collection that could have easily been lost. The clothes were beautiful for spring, and some of the non-sheer garments would also be great transition pieces into a fall or winter wardrobe.
Photos courtesy of Vogue