While Elie Saab got inspired by New York City, and Giles Deacon travelled back to Lady Ottoline’s cultural circles, Jean Paul Gaultier reconnected to Mother Nature for his latest Jean Paul Gaultier Couture fall/winter 2016-17 collection, showing us how such a diverse theme can be translated to a grand total of 57 different looks.
Making ample use of rich colors that got directly inspired by the earth, Jean Paul Gaultier let the four seasons overwhelm him with their different colors, scents and peculiarities, creating whimsical, couture-esque pieces that exude a highly covetable warmness and coziness indeed, even when displaying summer- and spring-inspired patterns.
To fully immerse himself in nature, the iconic 64-year-old fashion designer headed to Japan, whose infinite woods and spiritual soul never fail to fill the travelers’ hearts with a sense of harmony and incredible sources of inspirations.
“It really was like a revelation. I saw magnificent woods, so I made wood prints and worked them in planks, like marquetry. It’s all about Zen and nature and the environment,” declared the designer backstage.
And an artful air wafted for sure as soon as the first models hit the runway in Gaultier’s latest proposals, revealing not only all of the intricate and majestic details used, but also making it possible for us to clearly envision Gaultier’s creative process and inner peace.
The Jean Paul Gaultier Couture fall 2016 collection may in fact not appear likeable for everybody, but it’s basically impossible not to be astounded by the incredible care and forethought the designer put in each one of the pieces, using workmanship that, as Gaultier stated, “is very, very, very couture,” and “ can’t be copied.”
The most incredible part, aside from the exquisitely embroidered floral embellishments and trompe-l’oeil wood-grain prints, is the fact how meticulously he managed to duplicate the cortex of trees using not only patterns, but also creating interesting textures with the help of draped satin textiles.
While the autumn and winter-inspired dresses grow vertically with sinuous silhouettes, clean-cut coats and belts tightened at the waists, the garments inspired by the summer and spring days treat us to more flared lines and delicate cuts, alternated at times either with vertically plunging slits or oversized furry coats. Besides velvet, fur is another recurring motif in this collection, with its texture embellishing both the clothing and the accessory lines.
Then, while the botanical prints undeniably are at the core of this dream sequence of these Zen-infused looks, Jean Paul Gaultier managed to revisit his signature glam-rock style with this newly rediscovered philosophical aesthetic of his, pairing bustier tops and pin-stripe suits either with earth-toned pumps and clutches, or furry hoodies.
As the collection draws to a close, the designer serves us a grand finale for sure: more brightly colored pieces welcome summer back again, creating an appealing contrast with their winter-approved fabrics.
Then, like the icing on the cake, he quickly skips down to fall in the most sensual way one could ever depict the season, personifying it with sensual, goddess-like models all dressed up in curve-hugging short dresses and exotic proposals.
The very last piece figuratively represents winter, recalling the uniqueness of a fashionable snowflake.
Photos courtesy of Vogue