When it comes to New York Fashion Week we stand assured of seeing a generous amount of Hollywood-style gowns and frocks that are arrogantly spreading glamour and glitz all around. The British fashion designer, Jenny Packham is one of those initiators, who year by year comes to prove herself as one who is absolutely alien to casual style and casual manners, persistently adhering to her Kate-Middleton-esque style. It is not only Kate Middleton, who has been spotted wearing a Jenny Packham shift dress covered with yellow flowers or a pale blue one with white polka dots while leaving the hospital. Angelina Jolie, Kate Hudson, Uma Thurman, Miley Cyrus and many other celebrities have found something very familiar and unique about Jenny Packham’s designs. The designer’s eponymous fashion house, famous not only for designing evening dresses but also bridal apparel, has recently presented the charming Jenny Packham spring/summer 2016 collection, which was not expected to deliver something new and experimental.
However, Jenny Packham was partially innovative this time focusing on feminine and masculine monolithic energy that allows blurring all boundaries between the two sexes. She brings forward a very provocative frame of reference that the most attractive men have something feminine about them, while the most attractive women have something masculine about their character. She was mainly inspired by some feminine touches that her favorite musicians Mick Jagger, Nick Cave and David Bowie were emanating out. This very concept has been put in action to give birth to her spring/summer 2016 somehow androgynous collection.
Stating that the collection was all about Ying & Yan would be wide of the truth, as the runway was logically constructed in a way as to present a couple of androgynous options between ultra-feminine gowns. Actually, this concept proved to be quite effective and emphatic. The show, of course, opened with a masculine ensemble consisting of silk blazer and lean pants with palpable feminine elements like crimson wildflowers and leaves all interspersed here and there. Another masculine outfit that the onlookers were confused to see was the all-black chiffon shirt with sensually sheer sleeves all unbuttoned, paired with loose fitting trousers. Notable was also the floral printed blazer paired with cozy skimming trousers or chiffon pants topped with chiffon shirts all covered with flowers.
Between these bewildering pieces we could see Pickham’s signature glittering gowns embellished with studs or henna crystals that were mimicking multiple stars glistering in the night sky. Floral prints, appliqués or embroidery continued to find their place on massive ball gowns that seem to come right from a royal family. Sticking to the floral theme is somewhat trendy and popular this year around, so from this standpoint Packham is no way innovative but what makes her flowers different from others is their looking utmost natural on the models’ bodies, sometimes even turning them into real flower girls when there is tulle around. The embodiment of naturalism was definitely a mid-calf gunmetal georgette dress with cap sleeves and V-neckline that has been spotted by many fashion bloggers and fashion addicts as one of the most impressive staples in the collection. The palette of the collection was not only close to nature but also royal, among them being crimson red, lavender, rose pink, silver, grey and different shades of green like emerald and lime.
As for the models’ hairstyles and makeup solutions, we again didn’t fail in our predictions, witnessing ultra-natural wavy hair and pale makeup sometimes becoming bright by crimson red lips.
Photos courtesy of Vogue