The Jil Sander fall/winter 2017-2018 collection was shown with a bit of a surprise during Milan Fashion Week. The collection was focused on reproportioned silhouettes. There were tunic dresses that were cut to show off voluminous sleeves and tailored proportions.
The overall aesthetic of the collection seemed to be a bit dated due to the tailoring that defined big shoulders, but not so much the form of the women wearing the clothes. The outerwear was impressive, though again the shape of the coats was a bit off considering what is currently catching the eye.
The use of lurex could have been much more fantastic than it was; though the look of what was presented was nice, it will come up lacking in comparison to other collections. The appeal of the collection is not lacking and there is always someone interested in another point of view.
The aesthetic appeared to be elegant minimalism and a subtlety was seen throughout the looks. The show unveiled dresses with ribbed knit, abstract patterned silk dresses and even a pierced dress that held gathered material. Those pieces that did not echo as pieces from the past were gorgeous and interesting.
The Jil Sander fall 2017 ready-to-wear collection was practical and calm, an interesting difference from many of the other collections so that Jil Sander was placed in the center – just good. It seems odd, all things considered that the collection would look a bit ‘80s when the last few collections all featured slightly off silhouettes based on the way the fabric was used, but it was not wholly unflattering.
Even though only a few pieces of this collection were unflattering, it is more than was expected and this is throwing people for a loop. The saving grace is the ratio – the number of good dresses to bad – is fantastic; it is only that the bad are so jarring that they are even mentioned.
Amongst all of the other topics of conversation outside of the collections at Milan Fashion Week, we have to add in that Rodolfo Paglialunga is rumored to be leaving Jil Sander. Jil Sander and Rodolfo Paglialunga worked beautifully well for three years, but they do have a plan for his departure. It is expected that Lucie and Luke Meier will step in to replace Rodolfo Paglialunga.
Lucie Meier will be coming in from Dior, while Luke Meier, her husband is the designer and cofounder of the men’s label OAMC. We will see the new direction that Jil Sander takes aesthetically and find out where Rodolfo Paglialunga will be. Either way, the Jil Sander brand will be making adjustments, and only the future shows will tell us how incredible or interesting that will be.
Photos courtesy of Vogue