Jil Sander’s spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection was chock-full of interesting silhouettes and a few really rich colors. Under the direction of Rodolfo Paglialunga, Jil Sander as a brand has not made a major departure from the minimalist Sander standard, but he definitely showed off a few unexpected elements.
The tailoring was exact, and the silhouettes were exaggerated in some areas both towards bigger and appearing smaller than the actual dimensions in several pieces. The looks were – by many – seen as a very close appropriation of Demna Gvasalia’s aesthetics, which has been attributed to the shoulder pads that Rodolfo Paglialunga did mention are removable. As none of the looks were shown without the shoulder pads, many people maintain their feelings on the overall similar appearance.
The departure from the typical for the Jil Sander’s brand was not a leap off a cliff in comparison, but rather a shove away from the norm and that is something fashion always celebrates, reworking and innovation. The variety of colors was very strong; a deep purple, somewhere between eggplant and plum as well as light shades of blue and the currently very popular yellow and peach gave the Jil Sander spring 2017 collection at Milan Fashion Week an interesting spectrum to consider.
While Rodolfo Paglialunga has been running the Jil Sander brand for the past two years, he has not really been able to branch out as other designers would, as the brand was facing a bit of turmoil at the time. The departure of Raf Simons to work for Dior, Sander herself actually was at the helm and Rodolfo took over from her.
In the amount of time it took to get things streamlined while still producing fashion worthy of the brand name, Rodolpho has done an admirable job. Due to this, the adjustments were unexpected. The exaggerated shoulders gave the silhouettes of the clothes and the models a different look than expected.
The long coatdress with pinstripes and the repeated strong shoulders did not wow, but look 4 was interesting with the draping and pinstripes with no apparent buttons. The looks overall were very clean and clearly menswear inspired. Some of the pieces were a lot of fun and paired beautifully with the models and accessories.
The combination of the exaggerated sleeves on the peach colored crepe dress with the belt and the suede flap bag was a beautiful look with an excellent choice of complementary accessories. The length was ideal, the flow of the dress down the runway was great and as a full look, it was just lovely. The dresses featuring these sleeves were all beautiful; the white with cream belt and perfectly starched collar was another.
Overall the Jil Sander brand is strong and this collection did nothing to diminish that. The conversations of similarities to other collections is worth noting but also, at the end of the day it is negligible as designers borrow and enhance or improve the ideas of other designers all the time.
Photos courtesy of Vogue