The 54-year-old Gibraltar-born British fashion designer taps Bill Gaytten to present his eponymous label with the John Galliano fall/winter 2015-2016 collection at Paris Fashion Week, completely bereft of his usual crazy antics and perfectly loveable from the first piece with the long cashmere coat that has been given a slit up the center in the back and thrown over an outfit that includes a pretty swirling patterned miniskirt with a matching blouse and silk scarf tied round the neck, falling down the chest, to the final dress with the pretty fish swimming all over and using the long garment as their very own personal aquarium. Okay, maybe Bill does still have some Galliano-appropriate crazy included in the collection, but it is modest and quite interesting. Who doesn’t want to be seen as the perfect fish aquarium anyhow?
While Galliano’s vision for Maison Margiela is entirely different than Bill’s for his own brand, and wherein he feels like he can easily send hunchbacked models down the runway during the house he is creative director for, but has his own models standing straight and tall, looking confident and sweet all at once, we can see right through Galliano and have to admire Gaytten’s tenacity for the most creative, if not the most out-of-this-world designs within the modern fashion world. We are not sure who else can rock a hat with daisies adorning it and still look like a pirate ready to raid the Pacific.
Fish, fish, fish! Fish are swarming the runway and Gaytten has decided to catch them all in his garments, turning them into literal and abstract prints. Fish like flowers too, so some of the pieces have been etched with brain freezing, awe inspiring color combinations of a whole field of flowers set against a black background and worn on lovely little mini dresses. It appears as if Gaytten loves his short hems too much. Maison Margiela has gained much with Galliano’s support, though we way prefer his personal brand at this point over that of the fashion house for which he works.
Pebbled sequins also make their way onto the little dresses Gaytten offers, a rather lovely look with waving effects, long sleeves and an asymmetrical hem that barely grazes the tops of the thighs. Those glossy black knee-high boots do not seem to be doing much to enhance the look of the dress though, instead taking away from it. A more fitted, perhaps pure leather version might do the job better actually, since you don’t want to drop to a smaller type of shoe because of the balance needed with the amount of legs exposed. One of our absolute favourite looks is a long black gown with an amethyst slight curving stripe heading down from under the left arm to around the right side of the hem of the skirt, the neck covered with an amethyst colored scarf in felt that falls down to the knees in length. We absolutely love Gaytten’s fabric research and his overall Art Deco design interpretations! Simply gorgeous!
Photos courtesy of Style.com