At the helm of John Galliano since 2011 (when Galliano himself was dismissed both from his eponymous line and Dior for making anti-semitic remarks), Bill Gaytten’s creations have so far contrastingly embodied newness, freshness and a nostalgic melancholy that, along with a more affordable range of price tags, make everything look at least more appealing. For his John Galliano pre-fall 2016 collection Gaytten remained true to the label’s roots (after all, he worked with Galliano for over 23 years), while delivering a more wearable and commercial lineup that is not too exciting, nor too plain and simple.
Overall the lineup embraces the most naïve side of fashion, loosening the waists and making ample use of trumpet skirts, slouchy lines and oversized pieces. Although the naïve designs inevitably take the lead, the lineup somehow manages to vary in styles, starting off with more sensual looks and ending up delivering solid mannish outfits that radiate some retro roaring Twenties vibes too (which is something we will probably never get tired of). Refined and well-tailored, the lineup navigates French and Great Britain’s territories, both in literature and fashion, not only alternating maudit bohemian items with Dickens-approved looks, but also celebrating “The National Dress of Scotland”, namely the kilt.
When it comes to the color palette used, the John Galliano pre-fall 2016 collection solely embraces the dark side of fashion, soaking its items in black, burgundy and dark blue hues. Animal prints and white shirts interrupt the line at times, adding a modern zest that keeps things interesting. Patchwork and denim combine the perfect amount of romanticism the lineup is known for with Gayetten’s remarkable sharp tailoring and architectural background.
Single and double breasted long and short coats, button-up shirts and asymmetrical long dresses surely are the collection’s key pieces that can at least be layered and played with. John Galliano’s renowned bias cut tops and dresses are easily to be found in the collection too, while gauzy fabrics, ankle boots and thin scarves add a modern bit of soigné dazzle.
Given the fact that this is a transitional outerwear collection where sheepskin jackets, pea-coats in wool and leather items are indispensible must-haves, Gaytten chose to highlight their importance by adding black vinyl detailing and accessories, succeeding in his goal of creating versatile yet fancy and affordable looks.
Although being not at the center of the collection’s attention, there’s one item in particular that stands out of the crowd: an oversized pair of gingham trousers. Paired with an asymmetrical roomy coat and a plain simple v-neck wool sweater, it perfectly recalls Gaytten’s ideas on fashion, making us wonder what this label will look like in the future.
Photos courtesy of Vogue