The John Galliano spring/summer 2016 runway show just recently staged at Paris Fashion Week is stunning to behold with all its Anglophilia references and the skillful ways of covering England in different eras in a 35-look line-up. From the color palette used to the pretty patterns, fabric choices and fabulous accessories (those headwear pieces though!), every little bit of the entire runway show was perfect to bits and we are forever thankful to Bill Gaytten for granting us with such an inspiring ready-to-wear fashion line for the warm season to come!
Born between two continents, more precisely between Europe and Africa, in the British territory of Gibraltar, John Galliano has always loved adding different cultural references to his line-ups, and has always been a master at communicating his feelings through his clothes. Despite the notorious scandal, which resulted in his dismissal as the creative director of Christian Dior and John Galliano too – his eponymous line – we must admit that since 1996 he has played a leading role in the fashion industry. His designs take major inspiration both from the Eighties club kids’ scene and some more theatrical fashion styles, which subsequently lead his collections to often mix different themes and motifs.
Giving the fact that Galliano’s inheritance would be difficult to bear for anyone, when Bill Gaytten was appointed creative director of the John Galliano house, he found himself facing a lot of problems and even more criticism. After the first turbulent years, however, he managed to combine his expertise in pattern cutting with Galliano’s glamour, creating well-received collections.
Originally trained as an architect, Gaytten worked behind Galliano on both his eponymous label and at Dior for 23 years. However, thanks to his perseverance and hard work, we may say he has finally freed himself from all those negative comments and from Galliano’s shadow.
For his John Galliano spring/summer 2016 collection he got inspired by England, and looked towards the British fair shores. His tribute celebrates the Swinging London movement of the Sixties, a well known youth-oriented phenomenon that emphasized modernity. Faces of that era were models like Twiggy and Peggy Moffitt, who would probably love to wear Gaytten’s outfits in memory of that eclectic decade.
Combining uber-feminine see-through fabrics with romantic lines, Gaynett’s line-up has it all, from miniskirts with polka dot tights and little (and irresistibly cute) double-breasted jackets, to checkered motifs that are probably one of the most British things ever conceived so far. Polka dot patterns literally hold the stage and help in creating a totally new perspective in the next spring/summer season, which has been so far celebrated with everything but polka dot patterns.
Gaynett goes against the grain with the John Galliano spring 2016 collection. Although some designers did celebrate the Sixties decade (like, for example, Jeremy Scott), Gaynett opted for a more traditional Swinging London collection that has nothing to do with the retro-futuristic scene many fashion designers have recently embraced. He expresses his modern version of that fashion style and culture through delicate lace dresses with ruffled layers, leather jackets, sophisticated helmets with horsehair plumes, courtesy of Stephen Jones, who has been producing hats worn by princesses and celebrities from all over the world since the early ‘80s. Speaking of celebrating the British culture here…
A-line deep-V neckline mini dresses take the collection to its sexiest turn, along with metallic floor length dresses and black crop tops combined with punkish jackets, used even in contrast with long asymmetrical polka dot dresses and wide ankle-length ones. Long, frothy dresses are just the cherry on top, and go absolutely perfectly with the collection’s soundtrack: Twist and Shout by the Beatles.
Despite all the criticism, Gaynett has always known he actually twisted so fine and, now, even those who were skeptic about his collections have to admit he really managed to create an ideal collection, which stands out of the crowd and reaffirms his impeccable (and often underestimated) tailoring skills and creativity.
Photos courtesy of Vogue