“A sporty, urban and youthful collection for baby rockers,” that’s how Cavalli’s creative director Peter Dundas described his newest Just Cavalli fall/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear collection unveiled at Milan Fashion Week, revealing his previous pre-fall lineup was only a taste of what the label’s autumnal and wintery accents were all about to be. While for his pre-fall collection, he regarded punk-rock artist Debbie Harry as the collection’s muse, this time around he went further into New York’s rock era using the Factory Studio and the CBGB Club as fictional settings for the Just Cavalli FW 2016 collection.
Punk-rocker himself, Peter Dundas combined the artistic excitement of Andy Warhol’s Silver Factory with CBGB’s wave of unconventional free-spirited musicians, songwriters and personalities who attended the club’s many concerts. Everything is of course tied up with some polished New York vibes. As a result, the collection mixes Warhol’s jocose sequential patterns with CBGB’s studded pieces of clothing, relentlessly playing with contrasting motifs and making ample usage of quirky embellishments as well as different fabrics.
The lineup is, in fact, a well-served potpourri of leather, wool, furry and silky proposals, wherein sequins, sleek effects and contrasting gemstones are prosperous and at times literally blossom. Finding his main source of inspiration in the late Seventies-early Eighties, Dundas couldn’t exempt himself from adding cat-eye sunglasses, wide belts with gemstones and floral embellishments, gauzy handbags and vertiginous heels to the looks, making the collection a The Ramones-approved one (The Ramones staged their first concert at the CBGB, and would definitely rock some of Just Cavalli’s biker jackets).
The first thing one may notice while looking at Dundas’ array of proposals is that it could be regarded as the brightest ever with its vibrant pinks, bold reds and shocking purples being all over the place. To make it even more colorful, Dundas enriched the collection with both some of his favorite zebra patters, and other billowy squared designs, adding the ultimate pop-art touch to the upcoming autumnal season.
Printed furry collars, loose shirts (is it me or there’s Joan Jett giggling?) and fishnets all looked refined despite being not conventionally sophisticated, and all prepared us for the lineup’s key-pieces: a pair of bright red super skinny pants, a long-sleeved pink sequined t-shirt dress and a delicate pink coat that I bet will charm many of you. There’s even a sequined golden t-shirt dress with pin-up girl patches that will definitely quickly go sold out, although being not one of the collection’s key pieces.
Thin animal-motif scarves, cropped biker and varsity jackets, along with super miniskirts and metallic trousers just top it all off, while a Seventies-inspired maxi dress revealed Dundas’ intention to revamp Just Cavalli, while still being (at least modestly) anchored to its iconic legacy.
Photos courtesy of Vogue