Kenzo’s creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon finally unveiled their men’s and women’s wear fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collections in what appears to be their first-ever successful experiment with the acclaimed coed format. As it often happens, Kenzo’s men’s and women’s wear lines for the upcoming fall/winter 2017-18 season also seemed to be intertwined with one another, with the main motifs of the former having been transposed to the latter, and vice versa.
The Kenzo fall/winter 2017-18 collection is all about nature, politics and fashions, with each one of these themes being philosophically interconnected with one another. “We have work to do over the next four years,” Lim non-so-cryptically stated backstage, confirming the impression we got while browsing through the collection’s staples.
Although music is often the central point of view around which most of Kenzo’s collections and campaigns revolve, for this latest collection, Leon and Lim decided it was about time to build a different kind of relationship with their audience, exploring some of our society’s most impelling issues through fashion – first of all global warming. The idea of talking about serious issues through fashion is also one of Kenzo’s current resolutions.
“Let’s start the dialogue and if people learn about ideas through us, that’s great,” continued Lim. “It brought a bigger question to us, which is: Is that where we’re moving in this world, where you’re going to be doing summery activities in winter places?” Leon then clarified. “We try to use our platform to really talk about ideas.”
The fashion house is encouraging its staff members, Lim and Leon included, to get involved in social and environmental causes, and has recently partnered with activist groups Earth Guardians and Ideas for Us, whose main role is educating people on environmental awareness for a more sustainable future, and is about to drop a capsule collection with them.
For all of these reasons, the Kenzo men’s and women’s wear fall/winter 2017-18 collections combined heavyweight textured fabrics, as well as cozy, winter-inspired figures with more conventionally springy patterns, such as floral patterns, Hawaiian-inspired botanical designs and bright, shiny colors (which included Kenzo’s literally evergreen shade of acid lime/green, too).
This dichotomy created a dynamicity that, among others, gave its best with both the sweaters and the flirty frocks, which Leon and Lim often paired with long, oversized pencil coats. Somehow, they managed to keep up with this theme throughout all of their 45 women’s wear looks that, along with the men’s wear collection, made a grand total of 88 creations.
Other interestingly contrasting options, which will surely appeal to those who love Lim and Leon’s takes on Kenzo, included utilitarian anoraks with frivolous ruffles, sharp-cut skirts with relaxed ribbons, as well as checked patterns on layered t-shirts with roomy, flared sleeves.
Who says fashion is just all about fashion, now?
Photos courtesy of Vogue