Fashion should be about more than just the clothing as we have learned over the past years of watching the whirlwinds on the runways. The first thing that catches our eye within the Kenzo spring/summer 2016 collection that was staged on the Paris Fashion Week is the fact that there is Arabic script turned to interesting blocky designs. It is an intriguing way to look at something as unassuming as a writing script. It brings to mind so many possibilities that lie in the curious characters, the letters for centuries having been turned into bird-like images. And why not? After all, is script not art as well?
Kenzo has always had a very different style to it really, something which shows up in this coming season’s collection as well but a whole lot more toned down than expected. The Kenzo lines have a tendency to over exaggerate. There is, however, a very clear inspiration from the mosaics of the Middle East and North Africa, the Arab world lending to the blued and golden yellows that line the Kenzo spring 2016 collection throughout. It is the mosaics that really catch our attention, appearing on dresses and skirts, with golden pockets lined with white.
The diamond shapes appear on the boots as well, boots that are right high onto the thigh but have more cutout letting in air than there is material keeping it in place. These boots come in black, white and golden yellow. There are distinctly Asian looks as well, with some reminiscent of Japanese traditional attire.
There were a lot of clean shapes to the outfits, including arrowhead hems and geometric cutouts, the chevron piecework allowing for a lot of movement. We love the embroidery and the knit creating intriguing affects to the dresses while putting together very attractive tops and the like. It was a very grown-up collection as we realize that 2016 is all about the year of maturity whereas 2015 was more fun, hip and young.
It is the accessories that catch our attention. Other than the flat footwear, which includes the boots as well as thick strapped sandals, we can clearly see a fanny pack revival, which we certainly appreciate due to the fact that we love to travel. A trip to Europe leaves you needing a fanny pack since theft is a common enough problem, especially in the summertime, and most especially on trains. The triangular handbags are equally alluring, while large hanging earrings in ethnic workings are available throughout the line-up.
We notice round oversized sunglasses, which look even better with the strict combing back of the hair that has been pulled into a ponytail. The time period being glorified here is more or less the ‘90s, from the fanny packs to the bodysuits matched with short skirts, the Kenzo spring 2016 collection having a rather sporty and graphic context overall, despite the girlish highlights. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim certainly managed to capture the right mood and we have to say that this is certainly one of the best Kenzo collections seen hitting the catwalk yet.
Photos courtesy of Vogue