In a ready-to-wear collection for fall 2016, Pedro Lourenço showed his debut collection for La Perla. The brand, most commonly known for its lingerie, appointed Lourenço as its first creative director in January, so this unveil was highly anticipated by all parties. The La Perla fall/winter 2016 collection had an intended goal of expanding the brand’s wares in all departments: lingerie, sleepwear, loungewear, accessories, and menswear. This is a venture the brand decided to call “La Perla’s extended intimacy,” according to Lourenço.
The setting was modern and simple with a substantial amount of white light. The show was presented at the Società del Giardino in Milan, which is an esteemed gentleman’s club. More specifically, the line was shown in the Sala d’Oro Neo-classical space. This was the perfect backdrop for models, who wore simple black pieces that bridged the gap between ready-to-wear and lingerie. As was to be expected, they did tend to fall more on the side of the latter, but this is a common trend this season, even among non-lingerie designers, so the line fit right in with other designers’ concepts.
“We see this trend of pajamas and innerwear worn outside today, and La Perla has this know-how,” said Lourenço. This is a basis the brand was founded on, ever since the visionary designer Ada Masotti founded the label. Lourenço recognizes this and holds the founder in such high esteem, making sure to let that show in his words and his work. So he was able to gather inspiration from the brand itself, but Lourenço also looked to architect Oscar Niemeyer for some inspiration as well, which could be found in the different curves that could be found. This intriguing structure mixed well with the bare-bones lingerie straps, as it juxtaposed the more classical theme of architecture with seductive connotations.
The garments shown in this collection would have done Masotti proud. The smart silhouettes and precise cuts in luxurious fabrics sometimes ebbed toward the label’s signature lingerie, which would naturally be for women more comfortable showing some skin. Other times, the result produced looks like a cropped business pant and blazer ensemble. It was these garments more than others that showed the young Brazilian designer’s talent with tailoring.
Even though his eponymous label didn’t work out for him in the long run, Lourenço’s technical skills will surely carry him far within the industry. Keeping his standard aesthetic in mind while incorporating the brand’s direction and own aesthetic will be the perfect thing to transition La Perla into its intended status as a lifestyle brand. There will be more to come for this brand as the seasons progress, especially with a set-in-stone creative director at the head of design operations.
Photos courtesy of WWD