Update: The news has been confirmed and Bouchra Jarrar has been named the new Lanvin creative director for the womenswear line.
We’ve all known Lanvin as the ultimate king of playful cocktail dresses, ones that turn heads and cause discussions long after you’ve left. Well, all this might be changing very soon! We’ve developed our perceptions of Lanvin mainly due to the designs by Alber Elbaz, who essentially crafted Lanvin’s reputation for the past 15 years. But since we watched Elbaz leave Lanvin in October 2015, we are now expecting a major shift in the brand’s signature style. The latest rumors have just confirmed our expectations.
Lanvin is said to hire the French-Moroccan designer Bouchra Jarrar, whose aesthetic is far from being even close to Elbaz’s fashion choices. While also feminine and elegant, Jarrar’s designs are less playful and are instead meant for the strong working woman, whose list of priorities doesn’t have flirty playfulness in the top 3. Finishing her latest collaboration with Mauboussin for a jewelry line (set for release in July), Jarrar stated that she is open for new collaborations with other fashion labels. Was that a subconscious hint on her future plans?
In an interview with Women’s Wear Daily last year, Bouchra Jarrar gave her own take on her design style and what she’s looking to accomplish with it. “For me, fashion is first and foremost a matter of proportions — the lines and the cut,” she said. “My objective is a defined look because our lives today are very fast, we are working women, we’re strong, we’re self-sufficient, and my clothes have to bring something — power, but without being aggressive, a defined look. It’s a look, it’s elegance, it’s Paris. It’s really an attitude.”
Such a strong attitude can’t be overpowered by Elbaz’s heritage. But we are hyped and excited for Jarrar’s potential and can’t wait to see it on the runway. It is also the time to inject new breath into Lanvin, a 125-year old fashion brand that has lately been going through financial difficulties due to fierce competition.
Interestingly, both designers, Elbaz and Jarrar, have Moroccan descent and it seems at least noteworthy to mention the coincidence. Despite that, if hired for the position, Jarrar will most probably tone down Lanvin’s flirtatious reputation and invest in more structured and quality designs. With Jarrar’s designs, women will be able to appreciate her skills by actually wearing the garments, not just looking at them. Why? Because her work is all about the construction and the fit.
According to the sources of this rumor, Lanvin is negotiating the job only for the women’s clothing line, opting for more autonomy for the men’s line. In the past, the men’s line was managed by Elbaz. With the future separation and the introduction of new aesthetics by Jarrar, Lanvin can undergo a serious branding change.
Lanvin hasn’t released an official statement and has informed the media that it does not comment on rumors. Jarrar was also unavailable to elaborate on the matter. If not Jarrar, many are speculating that Lanvin will go for a fresh talent and has reportedly considered Simone Rocha, Huishan Zhang and Erdem Moralioglu for the job. It looks like we can’t do anything but wait while the label closes the contract with Jarrar, and we’ll just keep our best guesses going.
Photo courtesy of Brownsfashion