New York is full of the hustle and bustle of city life, but what really triumphs in the city that never sleeps is the world of fashion, where each collection release is accompanied by major interest. With the fashion world also comes major intrigue, including the changes in creative directors that put viable new faces in the forefront, creating designs that the crowds value most. At Lanvin, with Alber Elbaz no longer heading the creative department, it was a mystery as to what we would be seeing for the pre-fall creations. Chemena Kamali and Lucio Finale have been charged with putting together the Lanvin pre-fall 2016 collection and the upcoming fall line, which will help tide the year over until a new creative director can be brought in. They are both fresh faces, who have worked with Chloe, Givenchy and Valentino, the latter two part of Finale’s past.
Since the changes began at Lanvin, we have seen a slight change also in the designs shown off. “Our focus is on the Lanvin woman, who she was and who she could be,” Kamali told Vogue, “but the evolution of the house, as well. It’s about finding a balance between the fundamentals but also thinking of who that woman is today. How can you inject that dose of authenticity?”
The new line-up includes 38 pieces, from leather coats to velvet dresses, Victorian ruffles to transparencies added to sweetheart necklines. Slouchy suits and skintight leather knockoffs appear on the campaign, interesting uses of materials seen throughout. Safe and casual are far from the words that would be used for this line-up, though it is clear it is not Elbaz designing the collection.
We, however, are head over heels in love with the use of aqua colors, particularly amidst the darker, more earthly tones seen otherwise. There is also a good amount of reds, from maroons to scarlet to deeper red designs, a hue, which really lends a hand to perfecting the creations before us. We see fur stoles, as per the year’s top trends, alongside frilled ruffles on skirts and tops, wraparound skirts and plunging necklines; there are high waists and loose pants, extremely wide legs to the slacks that fall to the floor. It is an interesting collection to say the least.
Without a doubt, it is an ambitious collection that features a few too many themes and the most promising pieces being a pair of coats. We like it of course, and the use of velvets is to be commended, but there is just something missing that we are used to getting from Lanvin.
All in all though, it is a great try to fill in the void created by Elbaz’s leaving, including a mannish herringbone overcoat and a Japanese polyester jumpsuit that seems to have erupted into bows. The deep ruffles were a fun addition as well, while the tone set by the collection was that of confident flamboyance, which so perfectly suits Lanvin in of itself.
Photos courtesy of Vogue