Seeing one of the most venerable Spanish fashion houses, Loewe under the tutelage of the 32-year-old Irish fashion designer Jonathan Anderson might have resulted in something having more holes than a Swiss cheese – after all, they represent two nationalities with traits standing so far from each other, not to tell about the large age gap between them. However, nothing of the kind happened but on the contrary; the eccentric designer pulled off to score points with the audience and take the brand to a new, more off-beat and positively chaotic level. Think no more about the Spanish house’s previous designer Stuart Vevers’ precise tailoring and classic silhouettes. They are consigned to oblivion; it is already time for the alluring cacophony a la Anderson that we once again got an eyeful of today several hours ago when the Loewe fall/winter 2016-2017 RTW collection was brought to light.
Asymmetry and lack of balance, drapes, pleats and layering, oceans of extravagant jewelry, constant speculations over Yin and Yang (Anderson has started as a menswear designer) and zero presence of eveningwear are what can best characterize the off-the-wall designer’s aesthetics, which also adds up to the Loewe fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection. Black and ochre leather was of course in attendance as a reference to the brand’s initial material.
Apart from leather belts, bags and trench coats, it was those leather bustier dresses with asymmetrical hemlines worn over graphic tops that knocked our socks off. Black and caramel ones were somehow rigidly sensual but when the golden ones appeared, royalty came to mix up with them all. But caramel leather appeared in another unique design, as well – on a black dress cut into geometrical shapes and fixed on busts.
The dresses or skirts with mid lengths asymmetrically flaring or else in pencil shapes were dominating in the Loewe fall 2016 collection with only one pair of white pants having been appeared throughout the show. There was a range of knitted pieces, as well – white and blue knitted skirts and tops were demonstrating tassels at the hems, while the white knitted skirt was torn at the hems as an additional proof of Anderson’s eccentricity.
Some of the pieces were wrapped with tulle pieces around the waist or arms as if bandages especially when applied on white dresses, while those macrame knitted tan dresses or skirts worn on naked body were really some pumpkins. Anderson is ordinarily far cry from kaleidoscopic looks, adamantly sticking to his monochromatic earthy shades of tan, caramel, slate grey, khaki, navel blue, as well as black and white, but today we also saw a couple of amethyst and Turkey red numbers that were really eye-soothing.
The most recently designed hand-painted napa pendants in the shape of a cat’s face were decorating the models necks in some childish manner but as was expected Anderson could not restrict himself to only one kind of pendants. We also saw golden sparkling pendants in the shape of handbags and leather ones in the shape of African tribal masks in blue and black.
Metal golden rings were running over in all directions linked together to form choker necklaces, earrings and bracelets perched around the upper arms. But if you cannot get enough of them, just look to those metallic sleeves or go further to revel in that magnificent overlay-dress worked out of myriads of metallic rings.
Photos courtesy of Vogue