Approaching its 170 years of hard work in the luxury industry, Loewe is one of the most prestigious fashion houses in Spain. Mainly known for its leather bags and classic style, since 2013 the Spanish house has started a new chapter (after reeling through numerous designers) thanks to its new creative director, Jonathan Anderson (who is currently one of the most acclaimed artists in the fashion industry).
Born in 1984, this young talented Northern Irish designer is giving Loewe a more dynamic and contemporary look, even though, before even presenting his first Loewe collection in 2013, he had to face some prejudices due to his personal views on fashion. In fact, when Anderson was appointed creative director of Loewe, many eyebrows raised about his capacity to combine the brand’s luxury heritage with his passion for conceptual and unisex pieces. However, after just 2 years of hard work, he definitely managed to guide this brand to its new, modern path, as proven once again by the Loewe spring/summer 2016 collection, presented today at Paris Fashion Week.
Anderson, who has always loved mixing culture with fashion, has never been afraid of showing his passion for Spain. For this collection he decided to celebrate the lovely Spanish shores and one of its main coastal cities: Barcelona.
Guided by the collection’s futuristic theme (look at those see-through plastic-wrap pants, please!), he gave the line-up a crescendo of sea-related pieces, which may remind some of you of Pucci’s latest spring/summer 2016 collection. Seagull and geese prints, swallow brooches and fish pendants are just the first taste of Anderson’s interpretation of the marine theme, which find other good allies with some see-through trousers and open-toe pumps, metallic ombré pants and shoes, and silver palazzo pants that poetically look like the breeze of the sea in spring.
Waves and foreshores seem to be celebrated by the futuristic metallic fringe appliqués, both used for long sleeve T-shirts, culottes and asymmetric skirts; summer is instead represented by Anderson’s all-white outfits, which are surely going to become one of next year’s must-haves. A long yellow mandarin collar shirt along with a bright yellow handbag and a structured shirt take summer literally to its most Eastern side.
Silver pointy shoes and silver studs take the Loewe spring 2016 collection back to its futuristic theme, while silver mosaic appliqués, used to embellish the one-shoulder dresses, sweaters and pants, may remind of Park Güell’s mosaics in Barcelona, constructed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudì.
Architectural influences are also to be seen in Loewe’s spring 2016 bag collection, wherein the structural handbags and geometrical bucket bags celebrate Loewe’s almost two centuries long history in the field of leather handbags. At the same time, however, head-to-toe logos and A-line safari jackets strongly reaffirm Anderson’s desire to modernize this luxury brand, creating more innovative and exciting collections.
Although his gender-bender concept was somehow missing, the Loewe spring 2016 RTW line-up manages to show both Anderson’s true self and his ability to challenge Loewe’s traditions, which won’t be forgotten but, at the same time, which need to be modernized. With Anderson, Loewe has gained not only a new creative director, but also a new, more desirable, luxury look.
Photos courtesy of Vogue