Ever since taking the helm at Loewe, creative director Jonathan Anderson has never missed a chance to surprise us. For his Loewe spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection he just went beyond expectations, forgoing his renowned signature androgynous style in favor of a heavily deconstructed look that alternates ethereally lightweight silhouettes with more geometrically abstract ones.
Such a choice, however, should not be too surprising. Jonathan Anderson has, in fact, been completely renovating Loewe for roughly more than a year now, even launching the first-ever Loewe fragrance, Loewe 001. The Loewe spring/summer 2017 collection, presented at Paris Fashion Week, proved that the Northern Ireland-born designer is ready to evolve his radically unisex aesthetics into something equally radical, yet closer to conceptual fashion and haute couture.
At first glance, the Loewe spring 2017 line-up appeared extremely modest in figures, and with a visible predilection for ivory and desert-inspired colors. Most of the collection’s 49 proposals also actually seemed to be directly inspired by a sort of warrior in the desert, with draping embellishments tactically adding a sense of ease and movement to the silhouettes, which becomes also extremely functional in any arid environment. Those who love Star Wars, though, will almost certainly catch a glimpse of a sort of haute couture version of Rey’s costume!
Anyhow, the collection alternated moments of pure utilitarianism and practicality with moments of pure femininity and high fashion. Aside from the sun-soaked, neutral shades, the collection also veered toward sensual blues, right browns and even bright pink and oranges, which inevitably served as the necessary base from which abstract patterns and almost cubistic figures could finally take control over the collection’s airy and flowy staples.
The second part of the collection featured, in fact, heavier, more textured materials, which in return enhanced the already vibrant colors of most of the pieces. Here Jonathan Anderson played with austerity too, proving a rigorous outfit can be easily playful as well.
In doing so, he created deconstructed belts, which he naturally cinched at the waists, and whimsical asymmetrical lines, which somehow looked extremely wearable and versatile anyways. As seen throughout the range of abstract pieces, Jonathan Anderson is not into half measures, for sure.
In experimenting with abstractism, Anderson immersed himself into the most deconstructed side of it, becoming the ultimate expert shape-shifter and treating us to extreme asymmetrical sleeves, collars, gowns and even layered appliqués. The art of layering is, in fact, always strong in Anderson’s collections, but this time around it got inevitably influenced by the designer’s fascination for the most abstract forms of art.
Interestingly, Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe spring/summer 2017 collection played with sheer and mesh fabrics too (almost any collection from this Paris Fashion Week featured at least one see-through staple), yet always managing to keep his modest-inspired silhouettes in mind.
Photos courtesy of Vogue