Unveiled on the last day of Paris Fashion Week, Nicolas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection is already one of the most talked-about runway shows on the Internet, both among fashion journalists/bloggers and fashion enthusiasts. And with its grand total of 45 looks, there is indeed much to talk about this sophisticatedly futuristic collection.
Although not the boldest collection designed for spring, like, for example, the Mugler spring/summer 2017 lineup, Nicolas Ghesquière’s take on futuristic fashion combined Louis Vuitton’s soigné legacy with the discotheque-ready patterns of the Eighties, just filtering everything through a confident, powerful lens, the patterns of which were inspired by a 1984 French film, “Rive Droite, Rive Gauche.”
“Rive Droite, Rive Gauche” touched Nicolas Ghesquière’s creativity so much, he even opened his Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2017 runway show with its soundtrack. “It’s a great movie about corporation and lawyers,” explained Ghesquière. “The women are so strong, so sophisticated. I was really curious to try to explore that. I realize that I didn’t explore that much yet the sophistication and the more dressed-up part of Louis Vuitton.”
Ghesquière’s way of exploring such patterns included sharp cut deconstructed silhouettes, as well as more relaxed, draped figure, the latter of which radiated polished urban vibes many will inevitably fall in love with. At times, he even combined such contrasting patterns together, letting the more standard Louis Vuitton relaxed staples get revamped by either glittery or translucent sequined patterns.
Of course, centering mainly on the familiar, Ghesquière could not miss the chance to reinvent the mansion’s renowned skirt suit, which he specifically translated to its most Eighties-infused version. Asymmetric cuts, leather skirts and suits turned into evening looks quickly taking the collection’s lead and letting the more languidly draped and wrapped dresses be the one in charge of keeping a chronologically coherent synergy between the lineup’s different two spirits.
The Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2017 collection also showed a conceptual dynamicity that we often see in Ghesquière’s creations, and which this time around got emphasized by pinstriped asymmetrical waistcoats, oversized trench coats and checkered jackets.
Such garments functioned as a sort of interrupting motif between the collection’s most conventionally elegant side, and its Eighties-inspired, glam rock look, which took us by surprise with an incredibly sensual soigné turn.
Here Ghesquière focused on both leather and see-through fabrics, often combining them together to better play with geometry and flattering silhouettes. Of course, here a bold black color dominated the scene, offering us pieces that just easily transition from day to night. With see-through fabrics being everywhere for the spring/summer 2017 season, we are glad we got to see Ghesquière’s interpretation of the trend too, which got its most sultry, mysteriously elegant turn toward the finale of the show.
The Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2017 collection’s closing evening dresses got then enhanced by Ghesquière’s bright pops of acid yellow fabrics and jewelry pieces, which are already regarded by many as next spring’s ultimate must-haves.
It is also worth noticing how skillfully Ghesquière managed to create an elegant continuum of style between the familiar and the new throughout his accessory line too, the handbags and boots of which will particularly intrigue most of you.
Photos courtesy of Vogue