This morning the recent line of couture fashion shows unveiled has increased with the presentation of John Galliano’s Maison Margiela Couture fall/winter 2015-2016 collection. Renowned for its avant-garde deconstructive approaches to fashion and designing, the French fashion house is most anticipated by the fashion addicted. It has already won the affection of fans multiple times by the extraordinary outfits that long stay in the memory of watchers. Celebrities like Kanye West, Sarah Jessica Parker and Julianne Moore adore showing off in them every now and then. To ensure strong positions in the world of high fashion, the designing house made a determined step towards success – last year it accepted John Galliano to its rows not considering the fact of his infamous past. And, Margiela’s move turns out a tremendous éclat.
John Galliano, the new creative director of Margiela house, once again proves to be an incredible talent and keeps the storming success of the spring collection. This could be anticipated after seeing his marvelous works in the rows of Dior. When talking about Galliano, drama and abruptness are at least the second, if not first thing to come to our minds. Here he stuck to his guns and made a truly fabulous show.
First, the decoration of runway should be pointed out: the backspace of Grand Palais was turned into an open, lightened, simple straight catwalk with rows of seats on either side – this is for everyone present to be on the front row and enjoy the utmost of the event. Galliano surfed the world to hand his much-needed materials – mud silk lining from China, tapestry from France, raffia from Madagascar and, undoubtedly, tweeds from Britain – to create these masterpieces. The show kicked off with total black numbers. The public immediately felt for those pieces that covered 70% skin and looked so elegant. At first sight, these might seem simple but then you see the masterful handwork of detail – asymmetrical sleeves, skirts, double pocket lines on one side and a single one on the other, half-torn fabrics and unimaginable necklines mostly at the back. Then followed a unique coat-like dress composed of a thick grey sweater with leather accessory, and a strange skirt, which was simply tied at the top with a thin black belt. Messy this might sound, but the look is quite nice and unusual with its best connotation.
The catwalk accommodated a group of male models who fitted the atmosphere as well as never. The blonde longhaired model, who also appeared in the recent Maison Margiela resort 2016 collection lookbook, sported the knee-length trench coat so fine: the many silver, black shapeless chunks looked at best light. Galliano is a genius: who could ever think of wearing a gray male suit as a brave mini, moreover with green amorphous adding of fabric right in front? Then comes the match of a suit as a top for a green skirt, which the model rocks with hair gathered back so tight that she seemed bald from the front. However, these greens were only a preheat move: here comes the green wrap! Yes, the dress on the girl makes her look like she is wrapped under the thick bundle of layers, though she seems to like it.
The balance should be kept: after the wrap outfit there goes the nicest coatdress imaginable! The color, collar, lotus shaped bottom make us fall for this gorgeous simplicity. The following idiomatic garments gave fresh ideas to those, who want to have a mixed emerging of fairytale, eccentricity and style. The ideas of Galliano do not seem to be lacking to the smallest extent. Who, on earth, could imagine that burlap sack will make a fine fabric for a chic outfit? Impressionist pictures are made into fine shirts matched with skinny skirts, though we are in two minds about the electric blue top. Maybe this is a key point for the whole Maison Margiela Couture fall 2015 collection: the color appears in details on every other model – crazy eye makeup, even half-painted face, lips and a turban.
As the line closes to the end, the characters coming out become increasingly more mind-blowing. Paint covers half dress and half the model, another comes out in a sliced dress with hair half gathered tightly and half made into a messy ban. A net dress follows her with wholly clipped head (of course covered in those). At the very end arrives time most anticipated by all “Lady Gagas” – marieé steps on the catwalk in a wedding gown made from plastic bag trompe l’oeil tulle as a veil. This was a real shock! Galliano script shines at its best.
The accessories and footwear adding to the chic of the Maison Margiela Couture fall 2015 fashion line corresponded to the atmosphere of chic with hundred and ten percent. Shoes with half-circled mirror heels, though a little difficult to walk on, completed the crazy characters perfectly. The makeup artists and hair designers created fully conforming looks – netlike eyes, large buns, wigs of varying colors in the form of huge flowers alongside natural, almost bare faces and classic bobs and waves.
The overall impression was much as if the show belonged to Galliano, as his handwriting shone through every single point. He once again came up with skillful craftwork and jaw-dropping solutions. No matter what happened in past – talent should be given the chance to create the most amazing works of art. We are indescribably happy for Mr. Galliano to represent our most loved Maison Margiela Couture as already for the second time he proved it totally worth it.
Photos courtesy of Vogue