Whimsical, extravagant, with pops of bright, bold colors and Pop Art references, the Maison Margiela Couture fall/winter 2016-17 collection is here to make those who like fashion art rejoice. John Galliano’s winning technique appears to be the combination of an out-of-this-world sense of nonsensicalness and exceptional artisanal skills, when it comes to manipulating different, unconventional materials, which often lead the designer to intertwine fashion with surrealism and the grotesque.
When it comes to fabrics, Galliano knows for sure what he is doing, and this couture line-up is here to prove he is definitely pretty good at choosing the right fabrics for his designs, especially when it’s about wool, cotton and overall ‘common’ materials.
With his Maison Margiela Couture FW 2016 collection, Galliano shows his desire to further explore the futuristic world he mostly draws inspiration from, although this time letting it be less influenced by the eastern culture. He mainly focused on western-oriented vibes, letting the main Eighties and Nineties subcultural trends overwhelm all of the proposals with their unique colors and subverting fashion rules.
We do see, however, a few Japan-inspired touches here and there too, such as the origami-gowns, Nehru collars and Geisha-inspired makeup styles, yet always being not so predominant as the Pop art inspirations.
As much as Pop art played with different patterns, reinterpreting what we unconsciously defined as part of the popular culture, Galliano deconstructed most of his pieces too, reinventing the classics and structuring them in new, exaggerated shapes.
Using intricate draping, belts and quirky fringed details, Galliano managed to create 24 pieces that all differ from one another, at times exploring the Maison’s beloved genderless territories, at times showcasing moments of pure (futuristic) femininity. Plastic materials help reach both the goals, either wrapped around the bodies just to create sinuous mermaid gowns, or used as refinements for what will probably break the Internet as the quirkiest accessories of all time.
Aside from the accessory line, which among futuristic hats, oversized boots and gloves is quite diverse for sure, the line is strong on coats too, displaying both billowy, theatrical garments and deconstructed short coats. They all seem to be extremely cozy and especially warm and, although some of them don’t look like the most wearable ones, they are highly covetable anyway.
This Maison Margiela Couture collection is also interesting for two more reasons: its color palette, which could probably be regarded as the most multi-dimensional we have seen so far, and the layering techniques used. T-shirts worn under dresses, layered jackets and shirts with hems that are so intricately wrapped around the bodies it is almost impossible to distinguish them, all contribute to creating a collection that makes us eager to see how Galliano will translate these couture-esque trends into his upcoming Margiela ready-to-wear line.
Photos courtesy of Vogue