An empowered kind of woman just took on a life of her own thanks to John Galliano’s latest take on the couture season, with his newly unveiled Maison Margiela Couture spring/summer 2017 collection already being one of Paris Fashion Week’s most acclaimed runway shows.
Like couturiers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Donatella Versace, whose Chanel, Dior and Atelier Versace Couture spring 2017 collections accordingly were all filled with empowering notes, for his Maison Margiela Couture line-up, Galliano opted for similar fashion warrior motifs, this time around, however, translated to a more steam-punk-inspired scenario.
Heavily deconstructed and with matching patterns to create the illusion of a controlled chaos, the Maison Margiela Couture spring 2017 collection is richly textured in both fabrics and shapes, the geometry of which created two different (yet equally appealing) patterns. While on the one hand we have minimalistic, clean-cut silhouettes, the deconstructed shapes of which got realized with strategic cut-outs at the height of the shoulders and waists, on the other we have cascades of layers, ruches and frills with juxtapositions dynamically reviving the collection with a more contrasting touch.
To let us appreciate the differentiation of such dichotomist patterns more, as well as to let us better experience a revisited standard Margiela-appropriate allure, creative director John Galliano decided to structure his Maison Margiela Couture spring 2017 runway show in a way that both sections could be visibly and easily distinguishable, with the more minimally deconstructed one paving the way for the latter.
Although polar opposites in figures, lines and cuts, both sections feature a common fil rouge that, ironically, is rouge indeed. Black, white and beige aside, the collection’s color palette features a fiery shade of red that harmoniously links all of the line-up’s pieces to one another, and that could be easily found both in the accessories and in the patterns and detailing of the garments.
The latter also feature some of the most astounding motifs we yet had to see ever since Galliano became the creative mind behind the mansion, and which mostly include faces either embroidered on the cloths or realized with layers of tulle on the garments.
Although being at times almost imperceptible at first glance, Galliano’s faces come alive as soon as the models that are wearing them start walking down the runway, revealing a play of contrasts that is already one of Paris Fashion Week’s most talked-about topics.
To recall both the embroidered faces and matching motifs, Galliano decided to pair most of the Maison Margiela Couture spring 2017 proposals either with steam-punk hats and headpieces, or mysteriously gloomy masks, which inevitably structure the shapes even more.
As for the overall inspirations the collection treated us to, we must say that the wool coats with satin silk accents, along with the black décortiqué satin ball gowns, the off-white crochet dress layered over a red tulle dress, as well as the collection’s star piece, namely an imposing black dress with one of Maison Margiela’s most voluminous gowns ever, are the proposals that won’t go quickly forgotten for sure.
Photos courtesy of Vogue