Oriental accents, recurring futuristic motifs and references to different subcultures, John Galliano seems to be more resolute than ever in what fashion should be all about. His Maison Margiela fall/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear collection, presented a few hours ago at Paris Fashion Week is quite similar to the previous lines unveiled by Galliano for the house. This time around, however, Galliano paid a clear homage to Paris too, as most of his proposals exude an exquisitely chic Parisian style as well. Another secondary, yet quite appealing recurring style about the collection is military fashion, which however got gracefully intertwined with a unique futuristic suburban warrior theme.
Most of the Oriental accents used throughout the collection are to be found in the detailing (makeup and hairstyles included), as Galliano always likes to put great emphasis on the details without taking anything for granted. The colors and prints exude Oriental vibes too, starting from the blue fabrics and ending up with the geisha-inspired bright red lipstick. As for the patterns, cascades of minuscule flowers embellish most of the 33-piece-long collection, at times becoming more elaborate and abstract as well.
Kimono-inspired sleeves and jackets, knee-length skirts and belts cinched around the waists all enhance Galliano’s illusion to make us travel back and forth from Paris to Tokyo, appealing to the senses of those, who love the Far East culture in fashion too. Actually, Maison Margiela is just one of the many famous brands that have been trying to bring forth their own version of the Oriental trend throughout the past years. The oversized knitwear and kawaii accessories, including muffs, undeniably contribute to representing the Japanese culture too.
The suburban warrior theme can be seen both in the proposals and the models’ overall looks with certain references to the Eastern cultures. Trying to illustrate his version of this theme, Galliano took the Nineties as the primary decade for his collection, bringing back not only the military style, but also futurism at its purest form.
The first thing one may notice about the Maison Margiela fall 2016 collection is that Galliano dared so much that he was not afraid to bring a bunch of plastic bags to the catwalk, combining them with refined patchworks of contrasting tartan skirts and shirts. The futuristic theme is represented both with the help of some conventionally futuristic metallic frocks and experimental combinations of asymmetrical patterns, which may surely not appeal to everyone, but definitely manage to accentuate the silhouettes.
To further elongate the figures and at times even present a sort of androgynous fashion, Galliano opted for draped shirts, skirts and plastic waistcoats, mixing conventionally feminine pieces with typical masculine lines. Metallic sneakers, sequin inserts and deconstructed sleeves make everything look even more dystrophic, immediately catapulting us to the distant future.
As for the more romantic side of the collection, we also see dramatic capes, princess coats and appealing floor-length frocks, which may not be the collection’s key pieces but will probably make most of Maison Margiela aficionados start sparing money to actually buy them.
Photos courtesy of Vogue, NowFashion