When it comes to John Galliano, one should always expect the unexpected. For his latest Maison Margiela fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection, the controversial designer took Paris Fashion Week by surprise unveiling a runway show that was all about apparent low-profile proposals, lightweight detailing and heavily deconstructed figures, which transformed themselves into something different, always playing with our perception and visions on fashion.
Showcased at Le Grand Palais in Paris and figuratively dubbed “défilé” (show, parade, march), Galliano’s Maison Margiela fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection was a parade of unexpected patterns and moments indeed, with the most remarkable one being the notorious Margiela5AC bag styled as an unconventional headpiece, the feathery embellishments of which seemed to be solemnly marching in step with the model who was donning it.
Paired with a plain simple bodysuit and a pair of Nineties-inspired jeans, the bag/headpiece (which was one of the first items to be revealed) quickly set the mood for the entire runway show, which all in all alternated extremely conventional, day-to-day items with one-of-a-kind, if not even haute couture-esque staples, leaving the onlookers with mixed emotions and in a sort of “fashion limbo” that is extremely hard to describe.
As a whole, the Maison Margiela fall 2017 collection was relatively coherent, with blocks of different motifs having been showcased in groups of circa 7 different proposals. For his collection, creative director John Galliano started off with the most polished, neutral-toned proposals, alternating oversized figures with hourglass silhouettes. He then went on analyzing more deconstructed, conceptually urban staples, toying both with geometric patterns, and with see-through and metallic fabrics.
After treating us to a sort of contrasting urban/anti-urban array of garments, Galliano decided it was about time to add patchworks of colors and patterns to the collection, serving up more complex, structured outfits that consisted of multiple layers of items, such as trench coats, skirts, dresses and crop-top. Lastly, he took all of the previous patterns and reassembled them all together into something new that could be described both as (sub)urban-chic and futuristically deconstructed.
Among the many varsity jackets and sweaters worn as dresses when without pants, John Galliano also managed to inject an unexpected political turn into his collection, too. If one looks closer at the trench coats, he will immediately spot the khaki one with a tailored, Forties-inspired cut-out neckline and, above all, a stencil of the Statue of Liberty sliced in the back. Although Galliano has yet to release any comment, his point of view regarding the current political situation in the USA appears clear.
Last but not least, one cannot mention the Maison Margiela fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection without acknowledging makeup artist Pat McGrath’s works, which for this specific runway show mainly consisted of gorgeous, bold white eyeshadows and bleached eyebrows I personally immediately fell in love with.
Photos courtesy of Vogue