Gender-bender pieces and breaks of pure feminine versus masculine moments: that’s what John Galliano offers in his Maison Margiela pre-fall 2016 collection, the main leitmotifs of which may be regarded as an urban-chic continuum of Margiela’s latest spring 2016 collection. Galliano won’t apparently stop his gender-bending brainstorm of ideas any time soon, also making beautifully androgynous male models hit the womenswear runway shows and the brand’s lookbooks.
Besides its gender neutrality, the collection also plays with various trends, some of which may be regarded as upgraded versions of the past haute couture trends. While looking through the Maison Margiela pre-fall 2016 collection, some of you may spot tons of bobby pins worn as accessories, a trend that previously made its official debut at Zac Posen’s fall 2014 show and way before at Dior’s fall 2009 show. Anyways, wearing bobby pins as accessories has been a thing for some time now (Rihanna wore them at the latest Met Gala after party, too), and Galliano’s recent exposure of such accessories probably means that we should try out the trend, eventually.
Coming back to the collection, we can’t help but notice two main protagonists: socks worn with sandals (which is probably one of the most discussed trends in the history of fashion), and statement accessories, such as purses and chunky dangling earrings. Each one of these details somehow manages to give a pleasing balance to the outfits, making Galliano’s traditional and characteristic style even more vivid.
The way Galliano mastered the art of layering is undeniable, meaning that, instead of focusing merely on the jackets and coats, he chose to alternate maxi coats and mannish blazers with dresses worn over turtleneck sweaters, loosely cinched with belts. Sleek fabrics look in a perfect harmony with metallic stud embellishments that adorn some of the most gender neutral pieces (such as the black rounded-neck sweater paired with a taupe bottom-down shirt), treating us with one of the collection’s key pieces: a pair of sleek metallic palazzo trousers that perfectly combines Margiela’s futuristic motifs with one of next fall’s hottest trends.
To top it all off, Galliano carefully put a great emphasis on the shoeline, alternating chunky sandals with clogs, which seem to be here to remind us that the so-called ‘granny chic style’ is here to stay, and that’s certainly more than just about dyeing one’s hair grey/silver. Regarding this, it is also interesting to notice that, besides including very few miniskirts in the collection, Galliano focused on below-the-knee lengths, which get modernized thanks to the urban-chic hats and giant-knot adornments. Moreover, those chunky open-toe sandals give room for some color-blocking combinations, too, which at this point officially are one of the year’s greatest comebacks.
Last but not least, while cold and dark colors such as grey, taupe, black and blue rule over the collection’s color palette, Galliano brightened up the line-up with fire red pieces, yellow/ochre fabrics and animal patterns, which not only help in making the collection more dynamic, but also accentuate the great amount of sheer fabrics the A-line skirts and embroidered stockings are made of. At this point’, we can’t help but wonder whether the Maison Margiela fall 2016 collection will be more conventionally classic or will keep on mixing contemporary urban-chic motifs with elegant pieces.
Photos courtesy of Vogue