When John Galliano presented his MM6 spring/summer 2016 collection at London Fashion Week earlier this month, everybody knew Maison Margiela was undergoing a not-so-drastic change. However, Galliano’s style is undeniably having a huge impact upon Maison Margiela, which is living a new phase since founder Martin Margiela decided to step aside. Galliano’s romantic and escapist visions about fashion often combine technical excellence with both traditional and futuristic lines, which most of the time are connected with the theatrical word. For his Maison Margiela spring/summer 2016 show at Paris Fashion Week he took the retro-futuristic theme, along with the gender-bending couture he had already employed during London Fashion Week to its extreme, revealing a collection that is probably going to become a turning point in the history of the fashion house.
We may divide the line-up into three separate parts: the first one has a strong retro-futuristic leitmotif inspired by the early Sixties; the second one totally goes gender-bender and even has some Eighties motifs; while the third one takes elegant modern geishas onto the stage, combining Western futurism with Eastern world cultures and fashion. Makeup and hairstyles play a huge role through the entire line-up, becoming more actual pieces of the collection rather than mere accessories.
Classic in style and design, the early Sixties were more reminiscent of the Fifties rather than the Seventies, and embraced purity and femininity to their extreme. Galliano’s version of the Sixties is made for strong independent women that aren’t afraid to share their clothes with their male friends.
Swing coats, peplum blouses, oversized t-shirt dresses with sleek fabrics and metallic adornments look here like white snow-flakes, and are enhanced with the pulled-back bouffant and beehive hairdos, along with cool futuristic and dramatic eye makeup.
A preppy-looking cable-knit sweater introduces us to the second chapter of the Maison Margiela spring 2016 collection, which welcomes looks that are strictly linked to the Eighties, and love to play with unisex lines and cuts. Black and green dominate the pieces, and look perfect on those plunging necklines and shoulder-pad jackets. Pointy shoes and silver makeup give the looks an unexpected sophisticated turn, while victory rolls and rockabilly hairdos look absolutely flawless on Margiela’s army of stunning male models. Just one question: why the toe shoes, John?
Colorful futuristic kimonos, vivid red lipsticks and color-block belts that actually look like plastic robes and come tied precisely at the middle of the breast take us to the most interesting and unconventional phase of the show. Here we discover ombré skirts and sweaters, often embellished with floral embroideries and adornments, as well as sleek skirts and blouses that give fluidity to the collection. High waist ankle length skirts along with sleeveless maxi dresses seem to be made out of thick silky fabrics and link this collection to Galliano’s passion for theatrical fashion. Structured flared tops, gigantic chignon and sleek fabric jackets keep the futuristic vibe alive on the runway, giving this part of the collection an ethereal and uber-feminine look.
Photos courtesy of Vogue