Marc by Marc Jacobs is the diffusion line for Marc Jacobs, carrying high end items by the top designer at more affordable pricing. The 51-year-old designer is known for his impeccable style when it comes to creating the best in fashion, but sometimes does take things to a whole new level that we might not immediately understand. Now, Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier design for the youthful brand of Mr. Jacobs and they do stick to the brand’s aesthetic and exuberant attitude, bringing cool designs that we want to own right away. “We’ve learned a lot of commercial things from the market,” Hillier explained. “It’s a business but it’s also finding the balance, not making it dumbed down just so it sells.” For their fall line, they used various references, from the marvellous works of artist William Morris and the Guardian Angels to the 1979 film “The Warriors” and Jeremy Deller’s political posters. Powerful, strong and youthful, the Marc by Marc Jacobs fall/winter 2015-2016 collection for the New York Fashion Week runway show might be one of those instances when we take a second and third look at the pieces being showcased on the catwalk.
We already know that fashion can be used to spread messages, though in a more unconventional manner, and it appears that this time around some of the Marc by Marc Jacobs pieces have slogans or words that inspire thought, particularly the word “solidarity” appearing on the side of pretty blue green and brown patterned pair of leggings or “choice” on the waistband of a long maxi skirt. Words appear on scarves, on strangely layered dresses that start off the show on the football field and on the arms of the pieces that are shown off in the first batch of the fashion line. It appears the children of a revolution are being prepared and a riot is to be expected. The whole line seemed to resonate with pieces that signified different revolutionary movements over the years, from the hobble skirts of the suffragette to the berets of the rioting Parisians of the1960s; there were even Rastafarian red, yellow and green stripes, along with seditionaries’ leather bondage style outfits.
While the first couple of dresses might have had a few brows rising, wondering if they should actually be part of a couture line instead, the rest really grabbed our attention and refused to let go. We were treated to really lovely patterns in blues and more earthy colors; then come the tartans that make up the trousers, the cats and the skirts, before moving into the leather bomber the leather skirt and the leather pants. We do get a bit more girly later on, with the tulle lines velvets and the lacy dresses, while the puffed up skirts dominate the final batch of the 36 designs come onto the runway. They are lovely, they are unique and they are so clearly Marc by Marc Jacobs that we are anxiously anticipating their appearance in stores near us. The color palette was cohesive and had a nice flow to it, the designs presented were in a nice chronological order and we were more than happy to support the designer duo, who seem to want to start a riot right from the runway stage.
Photos courtesy of Style.com