Marc Jacobs just set the bar higher for any future street-wear-enthusiast designer, as he decided to showcase his street-style-inspired Marc Jacobs fall/winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection down the streets of New York.
Unveiled a few hours ago during New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs’ autumnal take on fashion took the designer to actually ditch the traditional catwalks, favoring the street outside of the Park Avenue Armory instead. The choice inevitably provided a classic New York soundtrack while the models were strutting down the “catwalk” – namely traffic noises, chatters and car horn sounds, as well as chaotic atmosphere that he could not get elsewhere. To further emphasize the street-wear theme, Jacobs even revisited his standard platform shoes turning them into their most city-approved style, which included traffic-stopping designs.
Back to the clothing line, the first thing that comes to mind while browsing through the collection is that, being inspired by the streets, most of the garments found their best transposition to the hip-hop culture, which is actually one of the many sub-cultures Jacobs usually explores for his seasonal collections.
This time around, however, Jacobs’ appeal for hip-hop was a more thoughtful one, with more appreciation rather than mere appropriation of the culture (“cultural appropriation” is, in fact, one of the main reasons behind Marc Jacobs collections’ criticism, especially in terms of the hairstyles he often chooses for his models). That might be also due to the fact that, before immersing himself into the creation of his staples, Marc Jacobs had been binge-watching the documentary “Hip-Hop Evolution”, as stated by the runway show’s official makeup artist Diane Kendal.
Signature baggy clothes aside, the Marc Jacobs fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection goes back and forth in time, trying to analyze each aspect from the hip-hop culture and embodying even its most recent styles. For these reasons, refined tartan garments, tight skirts and oversized hats are included in this collection too, with the latter already being one of Instagram’s most talked-about it-items of this NYFW.
Hip-Hop and street-wear aside, it is also worth-mentioning how non-so-subtly Jacobs managed to throw Nineties-inspired references here and there, with the slip dresses, the tight-high boots and the cozy coats already setting the right party-ready mood for the next colder seasons.
Even the collection’s color palette, which was predominantly earth-toned, exuded nothing but a kind of thoughtful warmness we yet had to see with Marc Jacobs, and that only served up classic richly vivid Marc Jacobs-approved shades toward the end of the runway show.
With no actual music, no catwalk and no actual set, Marc Jacobs might have just redefined what we regard as a conventional ready-to-wear fashion event and, under these premises, we bet (or should we say “hope”?) he has bigger fish to fry for the couture season, too (and that would be groundbreaking, for sure!).
Photos courtesy of Zimbio