We are all used to Marc Jacobs’ whimsical designs, but our favorite innovative American fashion designer may have just outdone himself. With his Marc Jacobs resort 2017 collection, the designer, who won this year’s CFDA award for the best womenswear designer, embraced his signature glam rock style, where the Eighties, along with their visionary music, were the main source of inspiration. To better embody his attitude towards the resort season, Jacobs chose the Duran Duran to play during his runway showing, and the band’s music was totally in tune with the models’ hairdos, jackets and overall volumes reminiscent of the Eighties.
“We took Fall and made it kitsch, and went from YouTube back to MTV. I’m fried,” he ironically declared backstage, “like the models’ hair.”
Designed with a keen eye towards a more modern kind of fashion, the Marc Jacobs resort 2017 collection is all about an even quirkier way of conceiving the Eighties, exaggerating the structures, mix-and-matching the patterns and alternating different fabrics with one another, often combining all at once in single looks. It is a collection that might not suit everybody, and Jacobs knows that.
“God knows, we’re just doing a nice showroom presentation. It doesn’t mean the clothes should be nice little showroom clothes, right? There’s plenty of that,” he unapologetically said during a preview on Monday.
With the designs hedged in a retro-futuristic punk Victorian style, the collection juxtaposes mannish androgynous pieces with oversized, layered flared gowns and cropped figures, balanced with either structured shoulders or richer-in-texture materials. As usual, the line-up was heavy on wild animal prints, to which Jacobs combined striped, shimmery and checkered patterns just to reinforce the whole Eighties mood.
Starting from solely mixing two patterns together, the collection quickly escalates to three and even four combinations of prints, reaching its peak with the billowy evening dresses that alternate botanical, animal, striped and checkered prints all at once. To such ensembles Jacobs even added ethnic jackets, the colorful fringed appliqués of which however manage to balance both the figures and the different patterns.
When not focusing on exaggerated figures, Marc Jacobs used his passion for proportion to treat us to some curve-hugging, form-fitting silhouettes, here translated into pencil skirts, tight button-down shirts with jabot embellishments, skinny jeans and even colored denim jackets. Although being less billowy in lines, all of these proposals feature equally quirky attachments, which not only include tons of patches and brooches, but also Pop art inspired motifs that inevitably keep us feeling energized by the entire collection.
Japanese-inspired ensembles took us to the line-up’s more elegant side, yet always delivering something that is unconventional for sure. As for the pieces that will surely fly off the shelves quickly, we can count on the MTV sweaters, which remind us of the so-called “high/low fashion” many designers are currently experimenting with.
Photos courtesy of Vogue