If you have once felt the subtlety of Marchesa palatial gowns on your body or just once caught sight of them, you have already crossed the Rubicon; you are spellbound, for sure. The founders and designers of the brand Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig tipped their hands unveiling the Marchesa fall/ winter 2016-2017 RTW line that way lending a helping hand to a series of Hollywood stars, who were at sea about what to wear to the Oscars that is at near hand now.
We once again entered the realms of fancy a la Marchesa, replete with loads of gems, stones and beads, wisps of tassels and ostrich feathers, bunches of laser-cut flowers, tons of silk, tulle and organza with scintillating threads weaved in and of course, all the royal shades possible – bronze, powdery pink, straw yellow, royal blue, silver grey, black and dramatic red.
This time around the designers found their inspiration in the dramatic portraits of the American artist John Singer Sargent, who was known to best illustrate Edwardian era luxury leaving to our pleasure such splendid works as ”Lady Agnew of Lochnaw”, ”Portrait of Madame X”, or ”Mrs. Henry White”. Chapman revealed backstage: “Each girl was her own portrait, regal and powerful like a queen.” So you might see here the languid elegance of Lady Agnew of Lochnaw, Mrs. Henry White‘s ahead-of-the-game demeanor or maybe Madame X‘s graceful allure and all of these regal women crowned with some dramatic grace.
From the very beginning of the show that bejeweled illusion dress with multiple flowers and leaves mixed with each other was an allusion to some female drama, which got intensified even more when a model appeared teary-eyed donning a sophisticated floor-sweeping shimmering dress, the bodice of which was all encrusted with bejeweled flowers. The silhouettes of the red-carpet-worthy gowns were running the gamut including floor-sweeping full skirts and pencil shapes, midi lengths and mini silhouettes, high-low versions and а great deal of froufrou numbers with some smoky déjà vu.
A couple of ethereal gowns like that powdery pink, baby blue or lavender one with realistic flowers fastened here and there had been definitely designed with heaven in mind, while the steel blue number all covered with ostrich feathers was an allusion to the bird of the heaven. Dramatic red was the forte of the collection cocooning the models with some dramatic passion like that massive gown with multilayered tulle full skirt and lovely flower beds on the waist and the neck or that super narrow off-shoulder version with sleeves and the hems knee-deep in realistic red petals.
There were some numbers worth garnishing a museum interior with the plethora of gems and scintillating tassels on them, while the intricate heavy necklaces, chandelier earrings, royal crowns and tiaras were to once more drive us at the noble luxury depicted in John Singer Sargent’s portraits. Yes, the Marchesa fall 2016 collection was just another show to manifest that the creative women standing behind the brand definitely know every thick in the book on how to luxuriate every single millimeter of the female body.
Photos courtesy of Vogue