For Marchesa’s unconventional take on the fall/winter 2017 season, designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig travelled all the way back in time to Imperial China, completely immersing themselves into its pompous patterns and rich colors. As a result, they managed to perfectly combine Marchesa’s signature delicate motifs with Imperial China’s opulence, keeping a strong synergy between both patterns and then refining everything with cute floral embellishments.
Influences aside, the Marchesa fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection could be regarded as a standard Marchesa lineup, with all of its items exuding strong Marchesa-appropriate vibes. Garden-inspired gowns, floral headpieces and soft pastel shades played an important role throughout the line-up, delighting us with something familiar and coherently structured (although not necessarily winter-approved).
What came as rather surprising was the mixture of Chinoiseries the creative duo implemented on almost all of the staples, and which are indeed something we usually don’t get to see in a Marchesa ready-to-wear collection. Whether it was about signature Marchesa designs, or more Chinese-inspired ones, this ready-to-wear collection could be overall described as predominantly formal, with the evening proposals dominating the scene.
Long, opulent frocks made their appearance onstage taking the breath of those who were watching the show away, while at the same time surely giving them more than one inspiration for the next red carpet events (as it usually happens with Marchesa’s runway shows, the first row was studded with stars and famous personalities).
All in all, the Marchesa fall 2017 collection revolved around hourglass figures and waist lines, with either layers of cloths or sinuous curve-hugging silhouettes enhancing both the models’ and the proposals’ lines. The colors used inevitably helped accentuate the figures too, especially when it came to Imperial China’s classic reds and bright greens.
When not showcasing rich colors, Chapman and Craig opted for softer lilacs, beiges and nudes, leaving it up to the cascades of floral embellishments to spice up the shades. “We mixed in new color stories that we haven’t done before,” Keren Craig explained backstage. “And we had a lot of fun.”
When it comes to the actual figures, here Chapman and Craig decided to not discombobulate them too much, either. Those who usually look forward to Marchesa’s runway shows, will pleasantly find signature mermaid gowns and ultra-fluffy tulle frocks in this collection too, as the directors canalized all of their creative efforts into revisiting the necklines, here adorned either with oversized bows or asymmetrical cuts.
Although not revolutionary as other fall 2017 collections unveiled for this New York Fashion Week, such as, for instance, Beckham’s, the Marchesa fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection was equally interesting in terms of fashions.
Photos courtesy of Vogue