When it comes to Marchesa, everybody knows that the heiress’ unique style may always revive and work as any collection’s stylistic theme. We can rightly consider the Marchesa pre-fall 2016 collection as a successful attempt to get back to the label’s origins, for which Marchesa Luisa Casati’s unique style played a huge role. Named after the heiress, socialite and artist, Marchesa was founded by Chelsea College of Art and Design graduates Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig in 2004, and has since then gained a lot of love and support.
With each collection launch, the duo managed to design timeless pieces of art, yet still injecting appealing modern zests to their creations that could help keep things more interesting and dynamic. For their Marchesa pre-fall 2016 collection, Chapman and Craig managed to combine not only their traditional artistic inspirations, but also a touch of opulence and quirkiness that directly digs into Luisa Casati’s style.
And that’s also why the entire line-up could be described as ‘extravagant’, a definition that could be mainly linked to the collection’s ample use of layers, deconstructed lines and appliqués. Marchesa Luisa Casati was extravagant indeed, both in mind and soul. Adored by designers and artists (such as Man Ray), Luisa Casati was never afraid to show off her eccentric personality, which of course reflected on her flamboyant and dramatic fashion style, too. Regarded as the “the first European dandy of the early 20th century”, Casati favored dark clothes and voluminous layers, from time to time interrupted by sinuous linear dresses.
Instead of merely copying her one-of-a-kind style, Chapman and Craig reinvented it, metaphorically taking up the residence in Venice, where the heiress lived. The collection seems to be inspired by any Venetian Grand Canal party, as it presents a great amount of elegant grand gala dresses that charm us with their perfectly-tailored lines, loads of tulle and pleats.
Although mainly exploring dark colors, the collection also features exquisitely beaded white and beige pieces, which definitely help make the evening black frocks stand out. Glamorous are indeed those black-and-gold lace corset gowns, as well as the scarlet red halter dresses, the structured lines and dramatic layers of which look like what Casati herself would have worn if still alive.
For those who would rather get a less dramatic outfit, Marchesa also managed to combine Casati’s unparalleled style with a more modern twist, which could be easily spotted in the designs of the slinky blush gowns and short-sleeved tops in shimmering fabrics. Billowing ruffles, a generous use of beadwork, Twenties-inspired beaded sequins, fine lace, breathtaking high slits, organza, tulle, mermaid and princess silhouettes, lots of gold and opulent jewel tones… The collection oozes luxury and glamour in every aspect, providing us with an array of one-of-a-kind red-carpet worthy gowns and cocktail dresses we’ll definitely see many celebrities don. This pre-fall 2016 collection definitely was polished to the extremely high standards.
Photos courtesy of Vogue