Marni has started its triumphant path through the fashion industry to support a fur production company and to design pieces wearable with fur, but it so happened that Consuelo Castiglioni’s geometrical shapes and unique colorblock solutions are now calling the tune, while furry details appear here and there to make sophisticated samples together. The Marni fall/winter 2016-2017 RTW collection, unveiled several hours ago, came up with yet another interesting fur-fabric contrast. We did not see so much fur playing throughout the whole collection, but quite sufficient to hark back to the Italian brand’s origins and quite sufficient to keep female bodies snug as a bug in a rug.
It was those geometrical shapes, oversized silhouettes and balloon sleeves that were playing the first fiddle at today’s delicious treat a la Marni and of course the vibrant colorblock versions able to spin millions of heads year in, year our. The show opened with a rare mishmash of colors and shapes – an ochre sweater with half moon hems and 3/4 sleeves was the best design chosen to show off balloon sleeves and tiny turtleneck of the true blue shirt worn underneath, while the front-pleat dark trousers with a wide belt and cuffs set the ball rolling for a new trend to embrace our legs come the cold seasons. There were also earth yellow, dark green and white versions, as well as a sapphire blue sample with a high waist and a smattering of checkered models with short cuffs.
Consuelo Castiglioni’s flair for style gave birth to some pieces with surface suggestive of crumpled paper. Just throw a glance at that black-white floral shirt with balloon sleeves showing many folders all over the map, while on a mini dress with black-white abstract motifs those chaotic folders were becoming more and more. Half moon designs were occurring not only on cashmere sweaters and furry capes but also on a series of scarlet midi skirts and dresses.
It was really quite inspiring to see the vibrant colorblocks dreamt up through different combinations – sapphire blue pants with Venetian red sweater, Venetian red skirt with a fallow shirt or hunter green pants with a white shirt plus an ochre cape. But the coloblocks via prints were even more exciting and enlivening. There was a shirt and a mini dress covered with white, burgundy, yellow, black and blue diamond like prints, a midi dress with the ruler sleeves and a skirt with high waist all demonstrating green, yellow, brown, grey, red and blue abstract geometrical shapes and an autumnal brown outerwear with some psychedelic shapes wrapped with yellow, white, blue and red.
Furry details were arriving in fits and starts. We saw a modicum of chocolate brown cropped overlays and capes with half moon designs, an elegant minimalistic jacket and a couple of black or white collars on grey checkered coats with red and blue splashed prints in the centre.
Psychedelic prints were throwing us into equilibrium, especially those white splashes squirted on shimmering velvet in navy blue, but if you are hankering after more powerful emotions go for leather to get those pieces with some parts all encrusted with oversized sequins in yellow and blue. Want more? No sweat, some melted plastic particles in blue and black splattered all over mixed with intricate embroidery and beads.
Photos couretsy of Vogue