Marni’s very first runway show under Francesco Risso’s creative direction has been finally unveiled at Milan Fashion Week, with his fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear fashions being all about mix-and-matched styles, patterns and references.
The Marni fall/winter 2017-18 rtw collection comes after former creative director Consuelo Castiglioni’s departure from the Italian fashion house in October last year, a choice that caused many heartaches and mixed emotions over the future of Marni and its new creative director as well. Francesco Risso, who graduated from Central St. Martins in London and has a resume that is made in Italy indeed (prior to Marni he worked at Anna Molinari and Prada), had and will have big shoes to fill.
Designing for Marni is not for the faint of heart for sure, as the fashion house is the place to go for some of the most elegantly eclectic, if not even eccentric pieces, with innovation and boundary-pushing fashions being at the core of the house itself. Marni was founded by Castiglioni herself, meaning that many still associate the brand with the talented woman.
So, what was Risso’s first approach to the upcoming fall/winter 2017-18 rtw season? First of all, Risso’s care for the Marni-approved offbeat visions appeared instantly clear. For this Marni fall/winter 2017 collection, Risso focused on unconventional patterns, such as intimate wear worn as outerwear, with both Sixties-inspired vibes and Seventies-inspired dancing queen motifs dominating the scene.
Risso’s vintage visions on Marni also took a step into the Nineties fashions, which subtly infused the entire collection with pencil cuts, oversized figures and layered silhouettes. The main motif that ran through each one of the staples was that of the color-themed proposals, with all of the items being presented in blocks of four shades. Francesco Risso played with chromatic motifs unveiling looks in gray-green, pink, blue or yellow, interrupting the line with few rusty reds, blues and color-blocking patterns, such as red and purple.
The Marni fall 2017 ready-to-wear collection featured brown shades too, which were used for the furry embellishments and appliqués of the staples (Marni will probably never stop proposing fur for its seasonal collections).
Innerwear aside, the Marni fall/winter 2017-18 rtw collection was also a place, wherein winter-approved garments were easily to be found, such as raincoats, warm hats and fur jackets.
Last but not least, Francesco Risso’s debut with Marni will be vividly remembered for the shoe line, as the Italian fashion designer completed most of the looks with intricately adorned sandals that featured Art Deco-inspired heels and, most of the times, geometrically elongated soles.
Photos courtesy of Vogue