An artful sense of elegant utilitarianism wafted as soon as the Marni spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection was presented earlier this morning by fashion designer Consuelo Castiglioni, during this Milan Fashion Week.
Marni’s presentation was a highly anticipated runway show, as the Italian label has built a reputation as one of the most consistent names for what concerns both the men’s and womenswear fashion, throughout these 22 years in the industry. With the previous Marni spring 2016 collection almost entirely dedicated to bold patterns of bright colors, everybody was wondering whether Castiglioni would follow a similar path for this collection or not.
While always keeping Marni’s signature clean cuts and minimalistic figures at the core of the garments’ philosophy, Castoglioni opted for an almost solely monochrome color palette this time around, with a creamy white hue dominating the entire collection. The line-up featured a few patterns as well, the colors and abstract motifs of which reminded us of Jackson Pollock’s renowned action paintings during his so-called “drip period”.
In displaying its shades and blocks of colored patterns, the Marni spring 2017 collection was incredibly coherent too. Consuelo Castiglioni carefully divided her lineup in three sections, with the first one focusing on whites and creamy ecru hues, the second one on abstract patterns, and the last one on darker shades. With the first part looking as a dream array of black canvas, the second and third ones seemed to be the natural evolution of Castiglioni’s creative stream of consciousness, and the final result surely left those who attended the show speechless.
In a similar architecturally pleasing way, extremely coherent were the figures used. Blending in deconstructed silhouettes with more structured lines, for her Marni spring 2017 collection Consuelo Castiglioni managed to mix utilitarian details, such as conceptual pockets with minimalistic, clean-cut lines, with playful ruffles and jabot details, creating an appealing contrast with the collection’s cloth belts.
Such belts, in return, helped the staples become highly functional and flattering, elongating the figures too. Oversized peplum figures and exaggerated puffed-up shoulders created a similar elongating effect, to the pleasure of those who favor extreme minimalism over (slightly) accessorized staples.
The collection, which strongly focused on loungewear-inspired wrapped coats, also featured revisited versions of the wrapped dress, with the airy lines creating a dynamic sense of motion with their textured fabrics and abstract designs.
As the show drew to a close, Castiglioni treated us to a few urban-chic, layered black evening dresses, with off-the-shoulder necklines infusing the entire collection with mysterious and fascinating Nineties vibes.
Consuelo Castiglioni, who received no formal fashion training before founding Marni, surprised us, once again, with an extremely polished collection smartly packaged with strong fashion.
Photos courtesy of Vogue