Every time Mary Katrantzou is on stage, be prepared to screw up eyes, feeling like you suffer some visual problems and ending up in some deep psychedelic trance. And when it is all accompanied by many mirrors reflecting the trompe l’oeil prints, the effect is just doubled much as it happened at the Mary Katrantzou spring/summer 2017 runway show held at Soho’s Brewer Street car park on September 18, on the third day of London Fashion Week.
The designer with Greek origins turned a blind eye to the fact that she was physically in London with her model squad, thus mentally and spiritually meandering among Greek labyrinths, participating in chariot racing and rubbing shoulders with Minoan women. The new collection was obviously an ode to her roots, an attempt to walk us through her memory lane, a coup to visually narrate the Greek history and culture.
“It was a really personal collection,” Mary Katrantzou said backstage. “I’m usually more abstract in my approach, but this time I wanted to look at my roots – and distort the images with something that was op-art and psychedelic.”
The Mary Katrantzou spring/summer 2017 collection was from soup to nuts crafted with an intention to show the whole pulchritude of the amalgamation of colors and prints, spiced up with Greek culture episodes.
The show kick-started with colorful diamond shaped prints in a psychedelic arrangement mixed up with Greek women images, Greek mythology characters and chariot racers. Amazing shift dresses, retro style flaring pants paired either with tunics or blazers were soon to be followed by calf-length tube dresses all covered with alternating Hellenic prints, which were somehow restricting the models’ gait. But who said it would be easy? After all going in for Mary Katrantzou style is a tough nut to crack!
Then came a unique chapter dedicated to long-sleeved printed turtlenecks worn over strapped tube dresses. But what made us all gaze open-mouthed were those amazing pieces made out of pastel-toned Perspex pieces that were just intensifying the optical spiral and moiré prints worn underneath.
The breezy floral-petal-imitating skirts in blue and yellow were adding the dainty dose in the air along with Minoan women images as more eloquent agents. And if you have a yen for some more fragile pieces, those mosaic sequined treasures with some ruffled pieces hanging down are to cover the bases.
Towards the end of the Mary Katrantzou spring 2017 runway show the chic factor was just moving onwards and upwards bringing to our view a couple of floor-scraping peplum skirts in green and blue prints with bodices displaying stunning embroidery of women and birds. There were also some unique combinations of gypsy-style tulle skirts with printed panels teamed with embroidered blazers and an amazing black multilayered skirt.
Want to be a predictable woman? You are obviously barking up the wrong tree. Want to be a woman making a splash? Mary Katrantzou is just your cup of tea!
Photos courtesy of Vogue