Officially the daughter company of the Italian fashion house Prada, but in actuality independent and freewheeling, Miu Miu keeps on knocking at our doors and we are again rushing around to open the doors and lay hands on the sweet fruits of Miuccia Prada’s out-of-this-world creativity and vision. Within this period a lot of fashion brands have been visiting us but it is our favorite juvenile and flamboyant Miu Miu that is instantly diagnosed via its unique footwear with various designing solutions and, of course, raccoon tails romantically swinging here and there and tenderly caressing us. The Miu Miu spring/summer 2016 collection staged today earlier in the afternoon at the Palais d’Iéna was again in its sui generis style magnified by Miuccia Prada’s aspiration to escape from the reality.
The runway at Miu Miu had been converted into an isolated area with faint lightning, decorated with pillars and silver and gold foiled arches between which the Miu Miu girls were nonchalantly sauntering. At times it seemed that the true purpose of their stroll was to show off those abruptly different high-platformed and high-heeled boots or ballet flats, every single one proving to be a real masterpiece. Calf-length lace-up boots with chunky heels were carrying patchwork and a real game of colors. That was not the regular square patchwork that all of us were used to seeing. Abstract or zigzag lines, at times mimicking lightning bolts or heart cardio beats were separating the suede or leather material into the most vibrant shades creating impressive colorblocks of red-brown-olive green, white-brown, white-deep purple or even blue-purple-grey-black. The flat ballerinas and lacquered pumps were not in their standard forms but styled with gingham ribbons tied as a bow on the ankle, some pairs even going further by demonstrating ribbons of different textures. That is why while other designers aim at making the audience look from head to toe, Miuccia Prada acts completely vice versa – toe to head.
The neatly tailored checkered dusters with wide lapels and leather boxer jackets with braid-like patterns stretching along were fitting so straightly and correctly as if being made out of paperboard. Now and then raccoon tails were peeping behind the jackets making us doubt about an animal hidden there. There were also faux furs of blue and purple shades thrown diagonally on the models over sheer shirts.
Diaphanous overlays acting like nighties were predominating in the Miu Miu spring 2016 collection evoking some confusion and stimulating us to consider “Can I really do it?” Intriguing were those black organza skirts that were not so easy to call skirts so intimately they were sneaking to us. Some ensembles were creating real chaos right on the runway with their multiple layers, ruffles, frills, those provocative raccoon tails and stoles and all these details on a single look.
The models’ hair being parted in the center and formed into two childish pigtails styled with beaded hair bands could have been commented as somewhat naïve and infantile if not the gothic style makeup featuring scarlet red-blue ombre lips and darkened eyebrows. Miuccia Prada’s message sent to all the ladies on the last day of Paris Fashion Week spring 2016 was really impressive and edifying – be childish and fatal at the same time!
Photos courtesy of Vogue