Inspired by Gabrielle d’Estrées’ et une de ses sœurs, a famous painting depicted by an unknown artist and now exposed at the Louvre in Paris, the MM6 Maison Margiela pre-fall 2016 collection has been finally unveiled. The painting, which portrays Henry IV of France’s mistress sitting nude in a bathtub with her sister who is pinching her right nipple (a gesture thought to be an announcement of pregnancy), actually has a lot of similarity with the collection.
Like Gabrielle d’Estrées et une de ses sœurs, the line-up shows signs of rebellion against conventional norms, making it possible to combine street-style fashion with 16th century influences and a grunge attitude. It is indeed a romantic collection, refined with au naturel makeup looks and layers upon layers of fabrics, which however isn’t afraid to show its rebellious and untamable spirit.
Gabrielle d’Estrées et une de ses sœurs may allude to Gabrielle and Henry IV of France’s soon-to-be born illegitimate son, César de Vendome. Like Gabrielle herself, the MM6 Maison Margiela pre-fall 2016 collection stands out of the crowd, being not afraid to reinterpret some of the main 2016 fashion trends.
The line-up is all about the size, and seems to particularly celebrate oversized cuts. From varsity jackets to boyfriend suits, each item is a wearable and oversized piece of clothing. This leads to another great similarity between the painting and the collection: layers.
Besides the original golden frame, d’Estrées’ sisters are pictured on the backdrop of luxurious curtains, the ruffled and corrugated motifs of which recall most of the fabrics used within the collection. MM6 Margiela’s pieces gently fit the models’ silhouettes, without tightening them, and becoming the sole protagonists. Also the frame within a frame composition trick finds its counterpart in Margiela’s collection, and has been translated into the layers upon layers designs. This abundance of layers was one of the most featured fashion trends during the Renaissance epoch, and brought many men and women all around Europe to wear voluminous clothes.
Interestingly, according to the collection’s point of view, the Renaissance trend has a lot of similarity with the contemporary grunge street-style movement, thus bringing lots of flannel shirts, structured sweaters and oversized sweatshirts inspired by the ‘90s. Blue and red plaid flannels, combined with turtleneck sweaters or reversible nylon varsity jackets, as well as the oversized t-shirt dress made of a gold fabric are definitely some of the line-up’s soon-to-be must-haves.
The MM6 Maison Margiela pre-fall 2016 collection also features sleek black vinyl shirts with structured layers that create a great contrast with the see-through layered shirts. Various neckline options including deep Vs along with whimsical dressers adorn the line-up with a more romantic attitude.
Deconstructed pinstripe suiting, fluffy textured jackets and pants in camel give the line-up a unisex appeal, while chunky ankle boots recall one of this fall’s hottest footwear trends. If that’s the premise, we cannot wait to see what Margiela has in store for us!
Photos courtesy of Vogue