There is always great anticipation whenever Maison Margiela is about to debut at the Fashion Week. And even though avant-gardist Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela, who has always maintained a low profile throughout his career, is no longer designing for Maison Margiela’s collections, his influence is always tangible. A few hours ago Galliano presented his new MM6 Maison Margiela spring/summer 2016 collection in London to the delight of those, who not only are always looking forward to Maison Margiela’s new designs, but are also futuristic and sci-fi enthusiasts.
Martin left the Maison in 2009, seven years after the brand was acquired by the Italian OTB Group. Up until 2014, a team of anonymous designers kept the label alive, while Martin was nowhere to be found. In October 2014 British designer John Galliano was appointed creative director of the house, and his debut collection came out in January 2015 (and was overall well received).
The futuristic sci-fi theme, also seen in Jeremy Scott’s SS 2016 collection, is here revisited in its purest form, and represents exactly what we feel future clothing lines would look like: unisex pieces that would fit anyone’s body. The gender bender theme is in fact here a good futuristic ally, and makes the lineup even more impressive. We can easily spot how these two powerful themes perfectly match together thanks to the first models, who made their appearance wearing metallic detachable sleeves, metallic bras over men’s oversized t-shirts and women’s clothes unconventionally worn by flawless male models, who also instantly introduce us to Margiela’s post-gender utopic planet. As for the metallic detachable sleeves (available also in a light blue plastic material), it appears John Galliano liked them so much he decided to design some metallic over-the-knee tights and some metallic crop-tops as well, which could also remind some of you of the Nineties futuristic feel.
Plastic and metallic fabrics have also been used for gigantic scarves, tied up at the neck or waist. Furthermore, plastic camisoles and plastic short jumpsuits take the futuristic theme to the next level and may also help us giving some food for thoughts on the theme of recycling (which has always been very dear to Martin Margiela himself). Oversized sweaters with oversized cut-outs along with oversized maxi dresses help the lineup take a more delicate and softer side, while white, black and metallic lab coats take the collection back to its main purpose, namely giving its viewers a taste of what the future holds.
Last but not least, although the MM6 Maison Margiela spring 2016 collection mainly showed non-present-time clothes, it did however give us some next season’s must haves, as well as some pieces anyone could actually wear on a daily basis, like the lace shorts and the deconstructed platform shoes. As usual, the fine line between fashion and conceptual art, with Maison Margiela, is razor-thin, and we couldn’t ask for more.
Photos courtesy of Vogue