Jeremy Scott’s huge bag of tricks was wide-opened yet again today at Milan Fashion Week and we are of persuasion now that his bag is spaceless and his creativity is limitless. Being Moschino’s creative director is no bed of roses, you need to be somehow cynical or at least pass off as one. Honestly we don’t know which of these two categories the American fashion designer fits in better but we know it for sure and see it clearly enough that Moschino under Scott’s tutelage is live, having reached its apogee in off-kilter theme today at the Moschino fall/winter 2016-2017 runway show.
Before the show the innuendos sent to us were promising to go places – the hashtag #ITSLIT on the brand’s Instagram account and Moschino’s logo all in flames. Are we really going to get into hot water with Moschino? There was so much to investigate in the collection. Even before the models appeared it was worth to nose around the runway venue to find the floors covered with red kilim rugs, a grand piano shattered and a chandelier half-broken piled somewhere near the runway, also many broken mirrors and dower chests lying around.
The whole shabby atmosphere was hinting that we would soon be obsessed with some cynical and pompous garment pieces, gaits, gestures or maybe smiles. It was beyond doubt to see destructed pieces just to sing in unison with that broken piano and chandelier. The collection was rendered out to manifest our guesses.
The leather pieces teamed with shimmering vibrant bows set the ball rolling and brought to our view an asymmetrical dress with scarlet bottom and black leather bustier, a lavender off-shoulder blouse with a huge bow up on the center or an amazing blue crop top and cape rolled into one stunner paired with leather leggings. The bow theme kept on going but the leather was soon to be replaced with denim.
You can bump into denim shorts teamed with a T-shirt and powdery pink overlay-cape with a bow only at Moschino and if you are after more exclusive Moschino pieces, then look to that satin yellow bow top and the rugged denim skirt looking extremely alluring together. The biker boots predominating in the collection were going higher and higher while the models’ necks and cuffs – heavier and heavier with metallic ringing jewelry. There had been some digging deep into cemetery to bring into life those mourning black dresses decorated with heavy chains and beads in a structure suggestive of a skeleton.
Yes, this was all hot, burning, real #ITSLIT but where on earth are those promised flames? Many of us were thinking so when out of the blue a super mini dress appeared all covered with lips holding cigarettes while the model’s ears demonstrating realistic cigarette earrings. From this time on things took a burning spin, literally.
A black satin pantsuit was burnt at hems; a white pussycat bow was begrimed by cigarette ash while a series of chic evening dresses burnt either at hems or here and there on the surface, with some cleavages screaming to have some compassion on them. But strange as it might seem, we liked them to bits the way they were – burnt, shabby and tattered.
If you considered the amalgamation of metallic chains on the models as something heavy, pass by those versions and lay your eyes on that super heavy chandelier dress registering far the most shocking number through the whole Moschino fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection. And that finale scarlet gown with many burnt slits and cleavages is to be registered as the most massive option happening. And if you want some description for that royal blue short ball dress with many burnt spots, we might just look to its wearer making crazy dancing movements and spitting out getting drunk the night before and dropping the lit cigarette from her mouth.
Photos courtesy of Vogue