Milan Men’s Fashion Week is not even done yet, but has already filled us with inspirations aplenty. Moschino is one of those many fashion houses that on the runway featured its women’s proposals as well while unveiling its men’s main RTW line, treating us to a multi-faceted show that was all about fashion, fluidity and politics.
Like Vivienne Westwood, who brought her eco-fashion issues on stage as usual, Jeremy Scott’s Moschino pre-fall 2017 runway show was equally politically involved, with the American designer directly drawing inspiration from his country’s current (not so well) state of being. Like many more fashion designers, Scott is also trying to speak up and to make a stand against what he does not believe in, doing it through fashion, whose power is unfortunately often underestimated by those who are not part of the industry.
“It’s a global situation. Of course, my country’s in the toilet, but when my country’s in the toilet, the world’s in the toilet,” he fearlessly stated. “We have to fight — for rights, for beauty, for everything we believe in because it’s being ripped away from us. That’s very much [what I wanted to convey] in the show. [On the clothes] frescoes have been covered over with black paint, arbitrarily, to hide them. That’s what I feel is going on. And trying to find any bits of beauty that you can and almost making emblems and totems of them.”
And beauty was, although filtered through Scott’s maximalist lens, at the core of the Moschino pre-fall 2017 collection, with tailored silhouettes going hand in hand with Transformer figures, utilitarianism and sci-fi-inspired prints.
Unless you are Jeremy Scott, trying to combine utilitarian garments, such as cargo pants and flak jackets with double-breasted coats and bon ton A-line skirts, is almost impossible, much less if everything got embellished with Moschino’s omnipresent whimsical prints. Jeremy Scott, however, effortlessly mixed these contrasting patterns all together, creating a sort of retro-futuristic allure we yet had to see in a pre-fall collection.
Moschino’s women’s wear collection for the pre-fall 2017 season combines strong Forties-inspired lines with contemporary motifs (those flack jackets inevitably recall both Scott’s war against violence and the wars the Western world is constantly fighting), and even more futuristic, space-inspired ones.
Although Moschino’s pre-fall 2017 woman fights, for the majority of the time, against prejudices, ugliness and violence, towards the end of the runway show, she projects her warrior visions into something fancier, yet always subtly gloomy, to prove beauty is to be found in everything indeed, even in the most dystopian of the worlds created.
Metallic gowns, intergalactic prints, sensual(ly dangerous) bustiers find their way throughout the line-up to give us confidence and something happier to believe in, with Jeremy Scott unapologetically stating, between the lines, that we can definitely count on him.
Photos courtesy of Vogue