With the way Moschino’s spring/summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection (designed by Jeremy Scott) started, there was no way to prepare yourself for the larger than life garments that the brand sent down the runway, unless you were there yourself. The first part of the collection gave a free-spirited vibe, but in a dialed down way. It made me question if the brand had decided to tone down their looks for the new season. There was a distinct “construction zone” theme paired with retro silhouettes, but it wasn’t too glaring. The first looks were designed on a reflective yellow fabric, and others that seemed to mimic the pattern of traffic cones.
The first sense of Moschino’s classic novelty was with the use of actual traffic cones. Being featured first as a handbag and later as a hat, these pieces really pulled the looks together in a way more suited to the design house.
The final piece that came before the “novelty explosion” was a classic, knee-length beige trench coat with an A-line bottom. This was my personal favorite commercial piece, because I can see any number of women dying to own that coat, with myself included. It did, however, seem out of place in the collection. The pieces before it were vibrant in color and (literally) reflected the construction theme, and the pieces after it were a combined eruption of colors and literal elements of roadwork, used in an unconventional way. It seemed to act as a calm before the couture-storm, and it really amplified the element of surprise for the audience.
Even despite the extravagant couture, Moschino really stepped up and made some simple feminine, retro-inspired pieces, like a boat-necked shift dress made from a fabric much like the reflective orange fencing put up at construction sites. The look was finished off with a simple black bow tied at the model’s waist. I’d like to dub this ensemble true construction chic, as it celebrated both the abstract theme of the show and a beautiful shape that could actually be pulled off worn on a daily basis.
Jeremy Scott definitely put on a unique, off the wall show, and I for one will admit that it’s refreshing to see a show that’s all about fun, while showing an excellent quality of work and even producing some beautiful and wearable garments for the everyday woman. But above everything else, I’ve never seen caution tape look so good.
The designer didn’t just stop at road construction, however. In the second half of the Moschino spring 2016 show, he switched gears and brought in comic books and the Powerpuff Girls. Suddenly you’re bombarded by a slew of bright colors and animation. But he also added cleaning products into the mix, directly afterward, and suddenly there were bubbles everywhere. They first appeared with a “squeaky-clean” light blue dress with a halter neck and large bow on the hip, and they stayed for the remainder of the show. The runway show ended with a finale of duster and mop inspired dresses to accompany the bubbles – just like at a car wash – and they were absolutely incredible (which is something I never thought I would hear myself say).
Moschino definitely lived up to their reputation this season, and presented a truly incredible, eccentric collection pulled from the most unconventional places in the world.
Photos courtesy of Vogue