This is the second season after his debut for Johnny Coca at Mulberry and his work had been criticized heavily when he got started with the Mulberry brand. For a British label that has no particular rules to it, it was more than expected that the new-minted designer would be going through some rough roads to get to where he and all of us – Mulberry fans, want Mulberry to be. Needless to say, he did do much better this time around, but there was a resounding question in our minds… is this a spring or fall fashion collection?
He almost seems to have confused the seasons here, giving us long sleeves and long skirts, dark colors and generally more utilitarian designs. The major splashes of color with the bright yellow and the orange-red certainly help bring in the spring flowers, while the whites and blues give us a crisp feel to the whole thing, but with the ankle-length footwear and the generally muted essentials, there seems to be an identity crisis in the mix as well.
The Mulberry spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection presented on the London Fashion Week started off with the less springy palettes, but here is where we have our own theory. Since the world generally sees snow and ice and not the best of weather for the first part of spring anyway, it almost makes sense to have a wintery outlook to start off with.
A trench coat appears from the very first piece, while we quickly notice that there is a certain love for décolletage here, along with showing off the lower legs; the latter appears under asymmetrical skirts that fall between knees and calves, under cropped trousers from just under or over the knees, knee-length skirts that swish under long jackets, etc.
The former we see with open rounded necklines as well as plunging Vs that fall to the top of the abdomen, some in crisscross fashion, while others are more on the deeper, simpler side, though there is a whole lot of high neck as well, particularly collared.
Perhaps one of the most appealing aspects to the collection is in the decidedly inspired slouchy tie- and Pajama-stripe silk separates that shimmer under the light and bring sleepwear to outerwear with ease. With so many new designers popping up around the world offering pieces based on this trend, we are glad it is here to stay. Now we just need to see some more of the slips that work great night or day.
The show was successful enough and we can be sure that Mulberry will be spoken about throughout the fashion world thanks to Coca’s efforts here that were hard at work. The overall energy was appreciated, and those almost unnecessary ruffles kind of did appeal to our senses.
Dresses and pinafores with big, sculptural ruffles… we are not sure exactly how we feel about these but they seemed to fit the season’s fashions nicely. We are sure Johnny Coca will mature into his role and soon have Mulberry as a top conversation starter in the fashion industry.
Photos courtesy of Vogue