New York Fashion Week is in full swing now and it is already the turn of the American luxe brand Nicholas K to appear on the runway with its spring/summer 2016 collection. The creative director of the brand, Nicholas Kunz in tandem with her companion and sibling Christopher Kunz keep up overwhelming the runway show with their so favorite draped, hooded and layered silhouettes that have already become the brand’s distinctive features and have already established themselves as Nicholas K indicators.
Show after show the pair is furnishing us with more and more threatening and aggressive looks that are definitely to emphasize the change of feminine role in the world. With Nicholas K all your notions about weak and fragile women will instantly fade away and be substituted with feminine figures that are devoid of any dismay and ready to venture into the dangerous world. That is why Nicholas K persistently avoids including any high heels and skin-tight dresses in its collections highlighting the comfort and velocity of movements.
The theme of the Nicholas K spring/summer 2016 runway show being “Terminal Velocity” with the focus on flight suits, Nicholas Kunz has not however limited herself with only BASE jumpers. She couldn’t but go back to the brand’s spring 2013 runway collection and reflect on her former inspiration by 1973’s film, “Soylent Green”, where futuristic nomads have undertaken to save the world. That is why now we are witnessing a group of futuristic nomads who are to take some flight operations with their parachute suits. As the designer herself stated the runway got its name through being full of energy and adrenaline.
The designers of the brand seem to be safari style’s faithful hunters, which are clearly expressed in Nicholas’s appeal to such shades as olive green and khaki, ash grey and charcoal grey, ivory white, beige, terra-cotta and cognac brown. The runway opening was full of ivory white nylon see-through suits – some of them with roomy hoods, others with massive lapels. Gradually the shades grew darker and the nylon came to be replaced with other fabrics like suede, silk, denim and distressed leather. It is beyond doubt that Nicholas Kunz is the expert of creating a real chaotic air on the catwalk. A case of point is the new show, which was accompanied by alarming electronic music and the models appearing wrapped in plenty of massive fabrics with multiple layers and asymmetric hems. The dip-dyed effects that the designer has applied to most of the pieces are likely to become integral parts of our wardrobes for the coming year. The combinations of black with saffron, denim or ivory with dip-dye attitude look really very effective on floor-length dresses and elongated ponchos. Some of the models catwalking so venturously and aggressively on the runway are also carrying cross-body ropes with rigid carabiners and tough metallic bracelets that come to underline their mighty characters more strongly. The footwear Nicholas has chosen to match with the overall look is flat leather sandals that are paired with knitted socks.
With their new spring 2016 collection, the brother-sister designers are trying to convert those prudish and flirty ladies into real warriors, women with attitude, encouraging them to work out a multilayered character, harmonious with their outfits.
Photos courtesy of Vogue