Nicole Miller presented a dark and alluring collection for the fall/winter 2016 season, which debuted at New York Fashion Week. The looks reflected the ancient artifacts and environment of Scandinavians. Everything about the runway show was cold – even the catwalk itself had a fog machine rolling, making the environment seem a lot colder with that one alteration, thus setting the stage for the cold season apparel. All of this was based on Miller’s overall mentality of “thinking about nostalgia for winter.”
Counteracting the cold, dreaminess of the setting, models walked at a brisk pace, more like one walking in the actually freezing temperatures than a model showing off the clothes for it. But at least the audience was given an idea of how others would see their clothes as they were breezing down the street to get out of the cold again. Yet, despite the dark chill of the clothes and staging, there was the intent of whimsy.
“I was thinking about how to make winter brighter, happier,” Miller told WWD. This aspect is one that was hinted at, but out of the context of the live show, the clothes definitely appear a bit more somber. The idea of Nordic mythology does pan out, which adds to a whimsical fantasy concept, so knowing what to look for helps the image to be portrayed away from the catwalk.
Outerwear was a key element in the Nicole Miller fall/winter 2016-2017 collection, especially fur vests, but also some great full-on coats. A printed grey coat with an asymmetrical fur collar paired with some loose polka dot pants was a highlight for the outerwear, as it has an impeccable balance between style and practicality, which is the best thing to look for in cold weather apparel.
As far as the outfits went, the base was dark, with color coming in with the different prints. Florals, jacquard, and other abstract or geometric prints shipped in pinks and oranges to ride atop the navy and black of the garments to add another dimension to the building story of Nordic past. Dresses were found in many forms, with most falling at the midi length, as should be expected for cold weather fashion choices.
One of my favorite things about dressing up to combat the cold is layering – especially when it comes to dresses and skirts. At that point, it comes down to finding the perfect leggings, outerwear, and footwear so as not to freeze, while still showing up in a cute outfit. Aside from dresses, however, there was a clear new focus on separates.
As Miller told Vogue, “Sportswear is an increasingly strong part of our business.” While dresses can often carry greater runway impact, separates are a major selling point that can never be overlooked. Miller and her design team decided to reuse past silhouettes and ideas, likely in response to market approval in the past, but the patterns kept the garments feeling fresh.
Photos courtesy of Vogue