The Nina Ricci fall/winter 2015-2016 collection presented on the Paris Fashion Week runway not only met but entirely surpassed our expectations as well in terms of style and sophistication. Guillaume Henry, Carven’s former designer, was rather quick to establish the French fashion house’s new identity, moving away from the ultra-feminine and often sexy looks that were appreciated by many, and giving the house a bit of his magic, teaching us to care about Nina Ricci, from its inception 83 years ago to date. The femininity that has always been a major part of the fashion house was not lost in this collection though; on the contrary, it was redefined with lace sheaths and narrow satin skirts. Fur coats were pieced together while matching tees and skirts were covered up in dazzling sequins; satin skirts were paired with patchwork cable knit sweaters, while a navy peacoat was thrown over a cream colored sweater and lacy skirt that’s perfectly transparent, despite falling to right below the knees.
The use of navy throughout is actually quite lovely, particularly with the exceptional tailoring and the focus on elongating the legs, a trend that has been common among most of the designers presenting their collections on the Fashion Weeks around the world. Between the high waists of the trousers to the midi hems of the dresses and the skirts, we have seen a tremendous amount of length appearing on the runways. Of course, for the shorter individuals in the crowd, that is quite the treat. Plus, with hems falling just below or just above the knees, we get to look sexy and demure, conservative yet with a flirty edge. It is so much better than walking about with every last inch of our legs hanging out, removing the whole aspect of mystery and the sensuality that inspires.
The use of navy coloring also extends to the pumps won throughout, while they also appear in black and white hues. The only other type of footwear we find in this collection is the single thigh high boot that extends almost to the top of the legs and that which has been seen time and again on the fall/winter Fashion Week runways.
The colors seen on the runway generally center around the navy, with bursts of stark white as well as pure black, complemented here and there with a brown fur coat, creamy ensembles and a single red glittering sequined dress that is almost blinding among the other more neutral colorings. Paired with white pumps, hair in a layered medium cut with the ends flipped out and bangs framing the forehead, and the dress itself a midi length with long sleeves and a round neck, this is a pretty lovely but feminine look that we totally expected from the new creative director.
It is certainly good to see that the Nina Ricci fall/winter 2015-2016 collection as a whole has not forgotten the older, more sophisticated customer that the brand caters to, while zeroing in on a new niche market as well. The keynotes by Guillaume Henry was stated to have been “femininity, sensuality, but simplicity” for the Ricci woman, wherein she need not scream out to the world that she exists but instead sashays through the days with sophisticated grace that lacks pretence.
Photos courtesy of Style.com