The Nina Ricci pre-fall 2017 collection was a lovely assortment of outerwear and eveningwear, all with that well-known and loved refinery the label is known for. Creative director Guillaume Henry has fit right into his role at the brand, continuing on its best features while also moving to broaden the spectrum of what fits into its collections.
This shift resulted, for this pre-fall line, in a stunning color palette of shades that seem to be copy and pasted directly from a sunset; hues of pink and orange were interspersed with other garments in black and blue.
There was an overarching Western theme that was actually super discrete. There were no cowgirls that walked the runway, thankfully, but the theme was apparent in detailing. Henry addresses the elegance and confidence, and also uses as a controlled theme besides the Western edge.
“I’ve been at Nina Ricci exactly two years and so far I’ve been working with this idea of an elegant chic, self-confident woman – a woman who knows herself – with the use of a lot of strong, rich colors. This season, I wanted to express the same self-confidence but through something a little softer,” the creative director said in an interview with WWD. “Maybe it’s linked to everything that is happening in the world, I don’t know. There’s a desire for softness, cocooning, and protection.”
The Nina Ricci pre-fall 2017 lineup is made up of smart pieces that will suit professional women in their daily lives, while also adding in a pop of interest that’s unexpected for the overall theme of the collection. Tailoring was sleek and chic, with the silhouettes and the color coming in to shake things up a bit. For instance, a wide-lapeled suit jacket was paired with a tea-length skirt with a high slit; the suit is perfectly tailored and classy, with the shock factor coming in with the beautiful turquoise color.
Corduroy pants also had a striking revival in this collection, as a smart pair worn with a one-shouldered ribbed top with cutouts on either side. This could have easily been an ’80s aerobics moment, with the high-waisted sides and mesh cutouts, but everything was kept refined in perfect balance thanks to the smart eye of Henry.
There was also a pair of corduroy-inspired skinnies that is the perfect balance between professional and casual wear. The fabric was a wool with chalk-striped pattern, styled to resemble corduroy. It was paired with an oversized white peasant blouse with lovely lace laid over, tucked in so as not to overpower the slim pant.
Outerwear came in a variety of practicality and silhouettes. An oversized pink puffer coat would definitely keep anyone warm on the coldest days and nights, but an oversized grey trench would be a great choice for fall days when it starts drizzling outside. The whole ensemble was tied in well to the rest of the collection with mesh polka-dot tights and reflective sling-back booties. The polka dot mesh is a recurring element in this line, and really helps tie the pieces together, as are the booties.
Another turquoise garment came in the form of a slim raincoat in an iridescent turquoise fabric, with areas of transparent lines on the back. This is one of the more practical pieces in the line, and also happens to be one of the more lovely uses of color. A rabbit fur coat bore another resemblance to corduroy; it looks as soft in the picture as it is in person! “I really like that it’s fur but has the ease of a sweatshirt,” said Henry in his interview.
All of these pieces worked to promote the same two vibes – Western and confident-chic – without erring too far one way or another. This is just one more of many pieces of proof that Henry is steering Nina Ricci in the right direction.
Photos courtesy of WWD