When Oscar de la Renta’s creative director Peter Copping was asked about his pre-fall 2016 collection, he humbly stated that the line-up could be classified as “a melting pot of American culture all mixed up to make something beautiful…I hope.” As Coach did beforehand, the Oscar de la Renta pre-fall 2016 collection also features an all American style, focusing on all the glamorous things the American culture is made of. There are clear references to the great contemporary American artists, to the surfing movement, to the Hollywood lifestyle and to the Native Americans, in a great potpourri of elements that blended together made the collection totally one-of-a-kind. On his mood board, divas such as Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly and Madonna were the main protagonists.
The line-up almost solely features evening dresses, which show Copping’s decision to deconstruct what’s conventionally regarded as elegant to make it more contemporary looking, in a clear attempt that could be also regarded as one of the designer’s homage to some of the greatest modern and contemporary artists from the U.S. That’s also why an artful air wafted as soon as the first outfits were unveiled, charming us with an impressive color palette of unusual color combinations and bright hues.
The collection travels from coast to coast exploring the Navajo culture through elegant black & white tweed skirts with a fringed hem, then treating us with Mark Rothko-inspired square earrings, patchwork fabrics and fur stoles, shortly after surfing the U.S.A unveiling edgy bonded tweed jackets. And it doesn’t stop here. As the California dreaming goes on, Copping fearlessly infuses the collection with some quirky red carpet-inspired long dresses with structured and layered lines that will be very likely worn by many celebrities and fashionistas at the upcoming most glamorous social events.
Being all about versatility and options, the collection also features pieces for all tastes, from the more voluminous to the romantic ones and then to the linear looks as well, which could be linked to Madonna, Grace Kelly and Marilyn Monroe accordingly. Loads of voluminous pleats, ruffles and tulle fabrics quickly make their appearance just to remind us of Madonna’s iconic videos and style in the Eighties, while delicate A-line dresses with box jackets have been clearly inspired by Grace Kelly’s famous charm and timeless elegance. Black dresses, often adorned with lateral cut outs and sweetheart necklines, as well as strapless column dresses, seem to exude Marilyn Monroe’s savoir faire. And, once again, it doesn’t stop here.
Copping kept in mind all those, who like wearing more low-key outfits, creating items that could be worn on a daily basis. Some of the collection’s most wearable pieces range from Bordeaux pencil skirts (unusually paired with yellow t-shirts) to sleeveless tops with pearl embroideries to basic, yet refined and sophisticated, sweaters, because, as the designer himself stated, he sees women in sweaters around his office. You know that a designer does a good job when, along with divas such as Grace Kelly and Marilyn Monroe, he looks for inspiration from the women he sees and admires around him, too.
Photos courtesy of Vogue