The Oscar de la Renta spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection for New York Fashion Week was completely okay, but there’s not much else to be said about it. The clothes shown on the runway at the Morgan Library were modern and trendy in a color palette appropriate for the season, and the eveningwear pieces were lovely as well. Yet, there was no wow factor to the collection; we couldn’t find a piece that stuck out as unexpected or especially impressive, but such was to be expected.
The label is at a major crossroads, with Peter Copping exiting and Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia (designers for and founders of Monse) entering. The spring lineup was scheduled to be a filler collection due to the absence of a concise creative leader, and as such there was no real point of view the clothes seemed to follow, but instead it was a culmination of vague ideas that was perfectly acceptable.
Thankfully the design team at the Oscar de la Renta fashion house has a firm understanding of the label’s principles, and they were able to create a collection using some of the most well-known and beloved silhouettes from the late designer’s repertoire, like with knit suiting, a classic safari jacket, and the peasant dress that the brand does so well. It was kind of nice to bask in the familiarity of easy, recognizable silhouettes from such a large label.
But my personal favorite part of a fashion week collection from this brand is the eveningwear. All who knew the situation knew not to raise their expectations for the runway, so that made the clothes much more enjoyable to watch. Otherwise we would have been in for a let down.
The silhouettes were fun and elegant, and will definitely look stunning on celebs come spring, but there was nothing fashion forward nor was there anything that fell short. Essentially, the clothes in the Oscar de la Renta spring 2017 RTW collection won’t be landing celebrities on the best dressed list, but it also won’t put them on the worst dressed list.
The exciting thing about this collection is knowing it is acting more as a palate cleanser than anything else. We are used to the spectacular job Copping had done as successor of de la Renta himself, so it’s probably for the best that we weren’t thrown into the new unique quirks of Kim and Garcia.
The muted collection here is priming us for a reset of the brand. We’re expected about the overall aesthetic to be the same, just with some of the new designers’ personal imprints.
We can get a bit of a glimpse into what that might look at by looking at the duo’s current collection Monse, but rather than thinking too far into what might be, I’ll just choose to sit here and wait in anticipation until their first collection for the iconic label walks the runway.
Photos courtesy of Vogue